Type: Trad
FA: Bob Kamps, Dave Rearick, Verena Frymann
Page Views: 5,682 total · 38/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 24, 2006
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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10 Opinions

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details


Same start as Wiessner. Climb up up right then left to the base of two broken columns. Climb the left-side of the lower column, then the left-hand crack to the top of a column with a bush and belay.
Climb the jamcrack above.
Finish with "Durrance" or another variation.


Pro to 5".


John Gunnels
Gillette, WY
John Gunnels   Gillette, WY
The crack protects very well. A good alternative to Durrance for those with experience. Oct 30, 2006
Joy S  
Verena Frymann (from the first ascent) was my mother. She died three days ago. Now it can be told... they did the climb thinking it was the standard Wiessner crack. Later, as they drove to another site, Dave Rearick (as she remembers it) was studying the description, with Bob driving (or maybe the other way around.) "Turn this thing around!" he said. "We did the wrong climb!" So they pulled a U turn and went back to do the right climb, and to properly describe and lay claim to the new route.

For anything but historical purposes, I suppose the only take home is, "easy spot to get confused, but there are a lot of good alternatives." Feb 25, 2011
Todd Felix
Todd Felix  
This route deserves more than 2 stars for sure. Lots of variety: stemming, crack, face, chimney, lieback, maybe even a little off-width, but not much. It felt harder than 5.7 to me but I had a small rack (had intended to climb a different route), and linked the 2 pitches. But it was fun. Cool way to skip most of Durrance if you want to keep going...or pass some slow parties. Oct 14, 2016
Lou Hibbard
Eagan, MN
Lou Hibbard   Eagan, MN
I thought the upper portion of P2 did not protect all that well. Possibly because I had already regrettably left my #6 Friend lower. I placed a marginal #4 BigBro and then got a good #1 camalot above that.
Someone died leading P2 on this in 2017 so be solid at the grade and bring some big gear if leading. Jun 11, 2018