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Routes in Durrance Approach

Black-Jones Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Centennial A2
Direct Southwest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Double-Edged Blade T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3
Durrance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fritz's Fantasy S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Late for Dinner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2+
Liken Lichen T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lovely Liana T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Manifest Destiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
P.O.T.C. T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pseudo- Wiessner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rangers Are People Too T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sundance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tunnel Vision T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wiessner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
interesting problem below, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad
FA: Bob Kamps, Dave Rearick, Verena Frymann
Page Views: 4,759 total, 35/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 24, 2006
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Same start as Wiessner. Climb up up right then left to the base of two broken columns. Climb the left-side of the lower column, then the left-hand crack to the top of a column with a bush and belay.
Climb the jamcrack above.
Finish with "Durrance" or another variation.

Protection

Pro to 5".

Photos

Todd Felix
  5.8
Todd Felix  
  5.8
This route deserves more than 2 stars for sure. Lots of variety: stemming, crack, face, chimney, lieback, maybe even a little off-width, but not much. It felt harder than 5.7 to me but I had a small rack (had intended to climb a different route), and linked the 2 pitches. But it was fun. Cool way to skip most of Durrance if you want to keep going...or pass some slow parties. Oct 14, 2016
Joy S  
Verena Frymann (from the first ascent) was my mother. She died three days ago. Now it can be told... they did the climb thinking it was the standard Wiessner crack. Later, as they drove to another site, Dave Rearick (as she remembers it) was studying the description, with Bob driving (or maybe the other way around.) "Turn this thing around!" he said. "We did the wrong climb!" So they pulled a U turn and went back to do the right climb, and to properly describe and lay claim to the new route.

For anything but historical purposes, I suppose the only take home is, "easy spot to get confused, but there are a lot of good alternatives." Feb 25, 2011
John Gunnels
Gillette, WY
  5.7
John Gunnels   Gillette, WY
  5.7
The crack protects very well. A good alternative to Durrance for those with experience. Oct 30, 2006