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Routes in Durrance Approach

Black-Jones Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Centennial A2
Direct Southwest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Double-Edged Blade T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3
Durrance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fritz's Fantasy S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Late for Dinner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2+
Liken Lichen T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lovely Liana T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Manifest Destiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
P.O.T.C. T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pseudo- Wiessner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rangers Are People Too T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sundance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tunnel Vision T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wiessner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
interesting problem below, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 130 ft, Grade II
FA: J. Schlinkmann, S. Gardiner, R. Guilmette, '85
Page Views: 2,827 total · 14/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 4, 2001
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

You & This Route

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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details


Approach Via the Durrance approach and head left at the cliff base to reach the SW corner. At the SW corner there are a number of shorter columns that reach a height of perhaps 100'.

The dihedral at the right hand edge of the right-most of these columns, beginning as an ever-steepening slab is "Rangers Are People Too." The next crack left of this, on the left side of the right-most short column, is the fist pitch of Direct SouthWest.

P1: (5.10-, 100' (?)Locate the climb as described above and start up the slabby initial section (easy) and into the right-facing crack & corner with thin jams and stems. Climb this to a good ledge with a fixed belay. Although I am not certain a single 60M gets you to the ground, it is close enough to be a mere scramble for sure. The route is not very sustained.


A good set of nuts and cams to 2.5"


Lucas Barth
Devils Tower, WY
Lucas Barth   Devils Tower, WY
The route length is more like 120 feet. You can rappel with a 60 and some 5.easy down climbing. May 10, 2016
Alex A
Alex A  
Fun climb, good gear, No way is this 5.10, easy 5.9-, at Devils Lake it would be 5.8, my guide book from 1986 calls it 5.9- Sep 22, 2010
This climb is super fantastic. One of my favs on the tower. A really good lead I think. Apr 16, 2007
Which guidebook calls it 10a? Maybe the rating applies to the fact that it seems a bit sustained towards the top? Good route no matter what... Nov 25, 2003
The poorperson's guide calls this 9-. Oct 10, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
It could be 9-, no arguement from me, but the book said 10a. I swapped the 10a to a 10- becuase I thought it less than 10. Sep 30, 2003
The actual name of this route is "Rangers Are Perverts Too". Sep 9, 2003
Are you sure about that rating? I was under the impression that the route was rated at 5.9-, I did it last time I was up at the Tower and it didn't feel like it was a 10- ? May 20, 2003

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