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Routes in Durrance Approach
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Black-Jones Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Blue Stem Skyway T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Centennial A2 |
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Devil's Delight Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Direct Southwest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Double-Edged Blade T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3 |
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Durrance T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fritz's Fantasy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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interesting problem below, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Late for Dinner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2+ |
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Liken Lichen T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Lovely Liana T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Manifest Destiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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P.O.T.C. T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pseudo- Wiessner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rangers Are People Too T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Space Ranger T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sundance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tunnel Vision T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Wiessner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m) |
| FA: | Jack Roberts and Ranger, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 1,163 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Heyliger on Sep 7, 2003 · Updates |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
Description
Space Ranger starts at a fixed pin above a tree on the far right side of the lower Southwest Buttress. The curving line of Rangers are People Too is just to the left.
The first section of Space Ranger is uncharacteristic of the main line, and climbs average quality rock (with average protection) to an obvious flake stance at the base of a soaring dihedral. The remainder of the route takes the brilliant thin crack up this stemming corner, with several footholds providing rests. Numerous thin sections are made easier using face holds around the arete on the right. Protection is excellent provided you brought enough RP's, and like many Tower lines, double nines provide a bit more confidence in pulling up a big loop for the next clip. Near the top of the corner, good TCU's protect a traverse left to a hanging flake crack (small Camalots) that leads to the anchors.
Although marred by the first section of average rock, the bulk of this route is outstanding climbing. There is no distinct crux move, but a long series of superb moves with sinker gear that goes in quickly.
The first section of Space Ranger is uncharacteristic of the main line, and climbs average quality rock (with average protection) to an obvious flake stance at the base of a soaring dihedral. The remainder of the route takes the brilliant thin crack up this stemming corner, with several footholds providing rests. Numerous thin sections are made easier using face holds around the arete on the right. Protection is excellent provided you brought enough RP's, and like many Tower lines, double nines provide a bit more confidence in pulling up a big loop for the next clip. Near the top of the corner, good TCU's protect a traverse left to a hanging flake crack (small Camalots) that leads to the anchors.
Although marred by the first section of average rock, the bulk of this route is outstanding climbing. There is no distinct crux move, but a long series of superb moves with sinker gear that goes in quickly.
Photos
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