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Routes in Durrance Approach

Black-Jones Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Centennial A2
Direct Southwest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Double-Edged Blade T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3
Durrance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fritz's Fantasy S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Late for Dinner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2+
Liken Lichen T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lovely Liana T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Manifest Destiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
P.O.T.C. T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pseudo- Wiessner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rangers Are People Too T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sundance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tunnel Vision T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wiessner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
interesting problem below, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Frank Sanders & Dennis Horning '78
Page Views: 948 total, 7/month
Shared By: John Gunnels on Oct 16, 2006
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

P1: This pitch is nothing short of STELLAR. The crack starts very thin and gradually widens to hands. The coolest move is moving past the large roof to your left. Stem your way to a semi hanging belay under the second large roof. Notice the great deal of texture difference between the left and right walls. Mother Nature is SOOOOO wondrous...

P2: Pass the roof on the left, through the off-width section to the column top.

P3: Either traverse right to the Meadows, or finish on "Bailey Direct".

NOTE: Most parties rappel after P1.

Location

The route begins three cracks left of Durrance under the prominent roof.

Protection

Stoppers, Camalots to #3.

Photos

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Lucas Barth
Devils Tower, WY
Lucas Barth   Devils Tower, WY
Not recommended due to the colony of 50+ swallows at the top of first pitch, which is causing most of the inside of the crack to be covered in bird poo. The rocky is pretty flaky as well. First pitch anchor is bomber, looks new. Jul 24, 2016
CodyE
Utah
CodyE   Utah
Fun climbing. Has a few resident birds deep in the crack up by the pitch 1 anchor. Pitch one was cleaned up in August 2015 and is a great shape, get on it! Aug 17, 2015
Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
 
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
 
The first pitch offers great movement, but crunchy rock and some munge in the crack...as is all too common at the Tower, this is a fine pitch which goes neglected and as a result hasn't cleaned up well. There are two fixed pins down low which seem OK. You can TR this with a single 70m rope if you scramble off the belay ledge a bit (easy). May 24, 2009