Type: Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Frank Sanders & Dennis Horning '78
Page Views: 1,056 total · 7/month
Shared By: John Gunnels on Oct 16, 2006
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route

8 Opinions

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details


P1: This pitch is nothing short of STELLAR. The crack starts very thin and gradually widens to hands. The coolest move is moving past the large roof to your left. Stem your way to a semi hanging belay under the second large roof. Notice the great deal of texture difference between the left and right walls. Mother Nature is SOOOOO wondrous...

P2: Pass the roof on the left, through the off-width section to the column top.

P3: Either traverse right to the Meadows, or finish on "Bailey Direct".

NOTE: Most parties rappel after P1.


The route begins three cracks left of Durrance under the prominent roof.


Stoppers, Camalots to #3.


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Trevor Bowman
Flagstaff, AZ
Trevor Bowman   Flagstaff, AZ
The first pitch offers great movement, but crunchy rock and some munge in the crack...as is all too common at the Tower, this is a fine pitch which goes neglected and as a result hasn't cleaned up well. There are two fixed pins down low which seem OK. You can TR this with a single 70m rope if you scramble off the belay ledge a bit (easy). May 24, 2009
CodyE   Utah
Fun climbing. Has a few resident birds deep in the crack up by the pitch 1 anchor. Pitch one was cleaned up in August 2015 and is a great shape, get on it! Aug 17, 2015
Lucas Barth
Yosemite, CA
Lucas Barth   Yosemite, CA
Not recommended due to the colony of 50+ swallows at the top of first pitch, which is causing most of the inside of the crack to be covered in bird poo. The rocky is pretty flaky as well. First pitch anchor is bomber, looks new. Jul 24, 2016