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Routes in Durrance Approach

Black-Jones Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Centennial A2
Direct Southwest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Double-Edged Blade T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3
Durrance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fritz's Fantasy S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Late for Dinner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2+
Liken Lichen T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lovely Liana T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Manifest Destiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
P.O.T.C. T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pseudo- Wiessner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rangers Are People Too T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sundance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tunnel Vision T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wiessner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
interesting problem below, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 275 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: June 1937, Fritz Wiessner, William House, Lawrence Covney
Page Views: 5,864 total · 47/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Apr 23, 2008
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details


P1 (5.5-5.8): From the initial belay bolts either climb slightly left and up an awkward wide crack, or move up and right about 15 feet until you can traverse back left. Once on the ledges above the belay you have three choices: (a) Go left around the base of the short pillar and climb up its left side, then continue up the left side of the small pillar above to a bolted belay station (5.5, combines Sundance and Wiessner). (b) Climb up through the stemming box, either stemming or jamming the crack on the left. Step left when you have a chance, and climb the left side of the upper pillar (5.6, Wiessner proper). (c) Climb up the stemming box. Instead of moving left, continue straight up the hand/fist crack to the top of the upper pillar (5.8, aka "Extended Wiessner").

P2 ("5.7"): From the belay move down & right a few feet until you can fall across the gap and into the Wiessner Crack. Keep reminding yourself that Fritz climbed this with a bowline around the waist, no sticky rubber shoes, with no pro and no beta, on sight! You may want to take your #6 camalot and walk it up as you chicken-wing and heel-and-toe. It is also possible to stay outside of the crack and use it as a side-pull/layback. Stop struggling once you get to the belay bolts at the top of the pillar.

You could link p2 and p3 with a 60m rope, but then you'd miss the fun of watching your partner struggle up behind you.

P3 (5.5): Continue up the wide crack/chimney directly above the pillar. At the platform above, walk to the back and climb the cracks on the right until you are on the same ledge as the upper Meadows Rappel. Build your own belay here for best rope management, using medium nuts.


Either take the Southwest shoulder (aka Durrance) approach and traverse down to the bolts for the final Meadows Rappel, or take the South/East approach and climb an approach pitch up (see the "Bowling Alley") to the rappel bolts. These rappel bolts are ground zero for starting "Wiessner".


Nuts & cams, or nuts & hexes. Bring a 7" Big-bro or a #6 camalot for the Weissner Crack on p2 ... although Fritz did without! You might also want a 36-48" runner to sling a chockstone.



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