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Routes in Durrance Approach

Black-Jones Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Centennial A2
Direct Southwest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Double-Edged Blade T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3
Durrance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fritz's Fantasy S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Late for Dinner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2+
Liken Lichen T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lovely Liana T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Manifest Destiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
P.O.T.C. T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pseudo- Wiessner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rangers Are People Too T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sundance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tunnel Vision T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wiessner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
interesting problem below, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Aid, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: Trevor Bowman and Frank Sanders October 17-18, 2008
Page Views: 2,621 total, 24/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Oct 19, 2008
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

An aesthetic nail-up on the steepest aspect of the Tower. The line follows the shallow corner between Kirk-Sanders West Face Classic and Blade Runner, surmounting a double-roof down low on the first pitch.
P1: Easy free-climbing for about 50' leads into aiding. The initial bit to the double-roof is rather tricky, with cams and assorted pins. The crux section is the roof and the following 20', which requires some tricky, marginal placements. After the crux, the crack opens into an excellent blade seam forever, with some arrow work near the top. The first pitch was strung into one 80m lead, with the belayer scrambling up to the highest possible stance and the leader maxing the 70m rope. Build a pin/cam belay when the rope runs out, about 15' shy of where the crack fades out. 260' 5.6 A3
P2: Clean aid on cams from the belay, tension traverse right into Blade City, nail it a bit, tension traverse right again into Blue Stem Skyway, and follow it on clean aid to a large belay ledge. 50' A2

Location

On the southwest face, the crack between Kirk-Sanders West Face Classic and Blade Runner. Easily identifiable by its double-roof down low.

Protection

Set of cams through #4, set of stoppers, lots and lots of blades, many arrows, angles #1-#4, 6 birdbeaks, tie-offs.
Brian Sadowsky
salt lake city
Brian Sadowsky   salt lake city
Nice job guys.

All those years at the tower and Frank is still doing FA's -----gotta love it!

How many unclimbed routes are left on the tower approx?

Brian Nov 8, 2008
Trevor did a Long and Skillful Lead on this one !! He left out the Best part; inevitably, it was a #1 Beak that was the last piece under the roof, followed by a poor, shallow, downward pointing Bugaboo just over the roof !! Yeah, Trevor !!! The climb is Fun and Exhilarating !!Its location on the SW face makes it warm most times of the year, and its more than steep enough to be "snow-free" all year 'round !! I Highly Recommend this route, (and any of those near it; i.e. Kirk-Sanders, Blade Runner, Blade City) to anyone that aspires to prepare themselves for some Big Wall nail-ups.Great Climb, Great Partner, Great Day. THANK YOU TREVOR !! Oct 28, 2008
Bickle  
Hell.....Yeah.....get some way get after the new routes at the tower. Oct 23, 2008