Devil's Delight Direct

This route follows the wide crack system immediately right of the more famous Wiessner crack. The crux pitch is 100+ feet of sustained, old school "5.7" offwidth. Expect a grunt. 

I couldn't find much information on this line. The Orenczak/Lynn guidebook recommends gear to #4. Upon reaching the base of the crack on my first attempt I laughed at the insufficiency of my rack which included a single #6, tucked tale and went home. A year later I returned with a full arsenal of wide gear.

The route as we pitched it out:

Approach P1: Climb the Durrance approach pitch and do not stop at the bolted anchor. Instead, continue right up an easy ramp for a short distance to another bolted anchor and belay here.

Approach P2: Climb the short, wide crack in front of the anchor to the next ledge above. This is very short pitch but it isn't trivial, perhaps 5.8. The tough start is well protected by a large cam. This is the best way to reach the starting point for several routes in the area including the popular Pseudo-Wiessner. 

P1: This is what you came for. Tackle the long, sustained offwidth crack that is generally 6-7 inches wide. The crack size changes somewhat rapidly within that range and it is not very conducive to simply bumping a #6, especially in the lower portion, because the crack is sometimes too wide. Thankfully, it is fairly convenient to clip a lot of the bolts on Fritz's Fantasy allowing you to stay well protected without giving up your precious #6s. If not for these bolts I would have needed more #6s to keep me happy. I placed a #7 twice down low before leaving it. I also made 2-3 hand sized cam placements in solid chockstones. Belay at a bolted anchor which is part of the Meadows rappel line. 

Better and bolder climbers have led this pitch with little more than the Fritz's Fantasy bolts for protection, foregoing at least most of the large gear. 

P2: Chimney/offwidth for a shorter pitch. Old school "5.5" and slightly chossy. I placed a #6. Belay at a bolted anchor. You have now joined Wiessner.

P3: Surprise, another short chimney/offwidth pitch. Old school "5.3" this time. I placed a #6 again. See a theme emerging? Belay on gear on a very well-worn belay ledge.

P4: Continue up and right for a very short pitch to reach a bolted anchor on the Meadows rappel line. Rappel from here or scramble up to the Meadows if you want to summit.

The wide crack system immediately right of the Wiessner crack & the bolted line Fritz's Fantasy.

Standard rack 0.3 to #3 plus 2x #4, 1-2x #5, 2x #6 (critical), #7 (optional).