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Routes in Durrance Approach
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Accident Victim T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Black-Jones Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Blue Stem Skyway T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Centennial A2 |
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Devil's Delight Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Direct Southwest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Double-Edged Blade T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3 |
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Durrance T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fritz's Fantasy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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interesting problem below, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Late for Dinner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2+ |
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Liken Lichen T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Lovely Liana T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Manifest Destiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Object Cathexis T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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P.O.T.C. T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Persistence T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pseudo- Wiessner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rangers Are People Too T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Space Ranger T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sundance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tunnel Vision T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Wiessner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 44.58978, -104.71537 |
| FA: | Steve Gardiner and Frank Sanders; May 17, 1980 |
| Page Views: | 148 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Backwards Eric on Jun 16, 2025 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
Description
We talked with Frank after climbing Persistence. He said it got its name because it took him three attempts to lead it. At one point he down climbed the thing from about three quarters of the way up the offwidth pitch. A few nuts, tube chocks, rigid-stemmed friends were his only protection. Modern cams (Black Diamond's 6, 7, and 8) make this a much safer, if still questionable/masochistic/tiring endeavor.
Pitch 0 - Durrance/Bowling Alley approach pitch drops you off at a bolted rap station.
Pitch 1 - Head directly up, through some fist crack and into some long, blue collar, offwidth climbing. I used a 5, 6, 7, and 8 all as "bump" cams for the entire length of this thing. A few horizontal shallow cracks on the climber's right take small cams for some reassurance/backup. Finishes at bolted anchors atop the Durrance crack.
Pitch 2 - Take a big step left down off the anchors, attain the pigeon coop crack, some gentle jams in a bit of chossy rock and stemming/scooting will get you past the two roofs and into some decent crack/chimney climbing. Honestly, this pitch feels excellent when compared to the grunt fest of the previous pitch. Finish on ledge area to climber's right of bushy corner. Build a gear anchor here. This is where the route meets up with the last pitch of Manifest Destiny.
Pitch 3 - Final pitch of Manifest Destiny to the top. Fairly straight up, with a zig to the climber's left in the middle (pitons mark the way). Gear anchor. Short scramble to top.
Location
Approach as for Durrance, but instead of going over to the leaning column, go directly up the crack to the right.
Protection
Overall: #.2 (BD cam), black totem, blue totem, yellow totem(2), #.5, #.75, #1, #2(2), #3(2), #4(2), #5, #6, #7, #8.
Pitch 0: singles .3 thru 4.
Pitch 1: starts with doubles 2 through 4, then use 5, 6, 7, 8 as bump cams (essentially making your lead an exhausting top-rope), use the yellow, blue, black totems in the horizontal cracks on the right, save a .2 BD cam for about 20 feet from the top.
Pitch 2: singles of .4 thru 1, have a 6 and 7 as bump cams for start. Build anchor with 2,3,4
Pitch 3: singles .3 through 2, a few long slings, build anchor with #3 sized cams.
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