Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,975 total · 38/month
Shared By: russellHOBART on Mar 16, 2008
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route

58 Opinions

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details


It's best to use this approach when there are no climbers on durrance and during the winter when the normal approach has snow and ice on it. The right crack has better pro but either one is run out.


keep following the trail until you get to the steel viewing tubes then head up


medium to large protection
John Gunnels
Gillette, WY
John Gunnels   Gillette, WY
WEAR A HELMET! This area is called the "Bowling Alley" for a very good reason! Regarding protection, the left crack will eat as many #2, #3 and #4 Camalots as you can beg, borrow or steal... Mar 17, 2008
joelhagan Hagan
Rapid City, SD
joelhagan Hagan   Rapid City, SD
This is a nice warm up route for the Durrance and takes as much gear as you want to take the time to place.

There is a set of anchors straight up from the start, but I usually put a long runner on those and keep heading left, building an anchor near the start of the leaning tower. This helps avoid any possible falls on the exposed traverse. Mar 18, 2008
did this one afternoon/evening. had no beta and didn't even own any pro. it was a little nerving at the "crux" which wouldn't been having have even a single placement. undoubtedly left me looking for more. can't wait to go back. Nov 5, 2012
Can you climb directly to the base of the durrance on this, or do you belay and then traverse left to start the route proper? And are there bolts at the base of the leaning column? I'm just trying to determine if doing the 5.4 bowling alley pitch is worth the extra time spent climbing... Any/all suggestions appreciated! Aug 28, 2013
John Gunnels
Gillette, WY
John Gunnels   Gillette, WY
Jason, this approach will ultimately take you to the base of the Leaning Column. Most folks "scramble" left, but short roping it is much safer. There are no bolts at the base of the Leaning Column, however you can build your own anchor quite nicely with a couple .75 C3's. Climb safe! Aug 29, 2013
Jason, it is common to clip a long sling to one of the anchor bolts and then continue your lead, traversing left. Go past the trees to a nice ledge area at the base of the Leaning Column pitch, where you can build a gear anchor. The Guidebook by Orenczak and Lynn says to build your anchor at the tree, but the ledge about 10 feet farther is better. Sep 23, 2013
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
This didn't feel remotely PG13 to me... Aug 11, 2014
I wouldn't agree with pg13 either. I've used that start twice....the first time I placed all stoppers and slung a bottleneck. The next time was all cams and slings. I just wanted to see how many placements there were. You can easily get 8-10 pieces on this 100ft pitch. There is pro to be had but the climbing is solid enough I placed 5 pieces and felt fine...plenty of rests. I find this much more enjoyable than the durrance approach and the scramble from the bolts to the durrance belay is a huge ledge probably 3ft wide. Apr 18, 2015
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
Clip the bolts at the top of this pitch with a long runner and walk over left and belay from the tree at the base of the leaning tower pitch. Also, not pg13, it will take as much gear as you can carry. Jul 5, 2015
Ben Kirby
Davisburg, MI
Ben Kirby   Davisburg, MI
Got tagged on the helmet by a rock while belaying up a follower, recommend clipping a bolt with a sling and traversing left to the start of durrance instead of hanging out. May 28, 2017
Curtis Baird
Johnson City, TN
Curtis Baird   Johnson City, TN
Not PG13 at all. Jul 1, 2018