Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Durrance Approach

Black-Jones Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Centennial A2
Direct Southwest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Double-Edged Blade T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3
Durrance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fritz's Fantasy S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Late for Dinner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2+
Liken Lichen T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lovely Liana T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Manifest Destiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
P.O.T.C. T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pseudo- Wiessner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rangers Are People Too T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sundance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tunnel Vision T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wiessner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
interesting problem below, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,506 total, 38/month
Shared By: russellHOBART on Mar 16, 2008
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

You & This Route


59 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

It's best to use this approach when there are no climbers on durrance and during the winter when the normal approach has snow and ice on it. The right crack has better pro but either one is run out.

Location

keep following the trail until you get to the steel viewing tubes then head up

Protection

medium to large protection
Ben Kirby
Davisburg, MI
Ben Kirby   Davisburg, MI
Got tagged on the helmet by a rock while belaying up a follower, recommend clipping a bolt with a sling and traversing left to the start of durrance instead of hanging out. May 28, 2017
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.4
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.4
Clip the bolts at the top of this pitch with a long runner and walk over left and belay from the tree at the base of the leaning tower pitch. Also, not pg13, it will take as much gear as you can carry. Jul 5, 2015
I wouldn't agree with pg13 either. I've used that start twice....the first time I placed all stoppers and slung a bottleneck. The next time was all cams and slings. I just wanted to see how many placements there were. You can easily get 8-10 pieces on this 100ft pitch. There is pro to be had but the climbing is solid enough I placed 5 pieces and felt fine...plenty of rests. I find this much more enjoyable than the durrance approach and the scramble from the bolts to the durrance belay is a huge ledge probably 3ft wide. Apr 18, 2015
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.4
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.4
This didn't feel remotely PG13 to me... Aug 11, 2014
Jason, it is common to clip a long sling to one of the anchor bolts and then continue your lead, traversing left. Go past the trees to a nice ledge area at the base of the Leaning Column pitch, where you can build a gear anchor. The Guidebook by Orenczak and Lynn says to build your anchor at the tree, but the ledge about 10 feet farther is better. Sep 23, 2013
John Gunnels
Gillette, WY
  5.4
John Gunnels   Gillette, WY
  5.4
Jason, this approach will ultimately take you to the base of the Leaning Column. Most folks "scramble" left, but short roping it is much safer. There are no bolts at the base of the Leaning Column, however you can build your own anchor quite nicely with a couple .75 C3's. Climb safe! Aug 29, 2013
Can you climb directly to the base of the durrance on this, or do you belay and then traverse left to start the route proper? And are there bolts at the base of the leaning column? I'm just trying to determine if doing the 5.4 bowling alley pitch is worth the extra time spent climbing... Any/all suggestions appreciated! Aug 28, 2013
did this one afternoon/evening. had no beta and didn't even own any pro. it was a little nerving at the "crux" which wouldn't been having have even a single placement. undoubtedly left me looking for more. can't wait to go back. Nov 5, 2012
joelhagan Hagan
Rapid City, SD
  5.4
joelhagan Hagan   Rapid City, SD
  5.4
This is a nice warm up route for the Durrance and takes as much gear as you want to take the time to place.

There is a set of anchors straight up from the start, but I usually put a long runner on those and keep heading left, building an anchor near the start of the leaning tower. This helps avoid any possible falls on the exposed traverse. Mar 18, 2008
John Gunnels
Gillette, WY
  5.4
John Gunnels   Gillette, WY
  5.4
WEAR A HELMET! This area is called the "Bowling Alley" for a very good reason! Regarding protection, the left crack will eat as many #2, #3 and #4 Camalots as you can beg, borrow or steal... Mar 17, 2008