Type: Trad, 155 ft
FA: Bruce Bright & Dennis Drayna '73
Page Views: 1,634 total · 11/month
Shared By: John Gunnels on Oct 16, 2006
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

If you like off-width, then this route is for you. The crack opens to fists, arcs left and joins "Black-Jones Direct". Bulge your biceps... 'cuz it's a grunt.

Location

The ominous looking crack just left of the first pitch of Durrance.

Protection

Big... Big... oh yeah... did I mention Big?...

Photos

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Trevor Bowman
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Trevor Bowman   Flagstaff, AZ
 
If you're just doing the first pitch, it really isn't an offwidth, but mostly cupped hands and fists. Bring several #3 camalots and a #4. Fun climbing, with some flaky rock typical of this zone on the Tower. You can rap/TR this pitch with a single 70m if you watch the ends and scramble up off the big belay ledge a bit (easy). May 24, 2009
Lucas Barth
Yosemite, CA
 
Lucas Barth   Yosemite, CA
 
Great route! Triples in 3s and 4s protects it well. A 4.5 is nice at the crux but not necessary. Few finger pieces at the bottom, save a .75 for the step left, and two 3s for afterwards. Anchor isn't the best, but if you're top roping- you can back up the anchor with a #4 Sep 21, 2016