Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Beyer (solo, as Zephyr 5.9 A1) 6/9/79, FFA: Andy Petefish & Kris Hjelle 9/12/87
Page Views: 730 total · 19/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on Nov 1, 2015
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Wow! A lead of this rig would be very impressive. 150' of non-stop, hard stemming up the flared chute. Having many #5 and #6 HB Rp's would be helpful. The more desperate climbing is in the first half. Catch a decent rest at the 1/4" buttonhead, halfway up, then place gear in the left crack after that. A second pitch continues off the hanging belay for another 140', goes at 11a, and takes more hand size gear.

Location

One of the many chutes in the center of the Durrance Approach wall. Right in between Blue Stem Skyway and Graeme's Line. 80m rope barely makes it down.

Protection

All the small nuts you can gather. Preferably offset.
Cams up .4 & a single #1 (for the 1st pitch)
Probably a standard double rack for the 2nd pitch.
One 1/4" buttonhead
3/8" bolted anchor, in fair condition

Photos

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Lucas Barth
Yosemite, CA
Lucas Barth   Yosemite, CA
Anchor replaced by Frank Sanders 10/2016. Oct 24, 2016