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Routes in Durrance Approach

Black-Jones Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Centennial A2
Direct Southwest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Double-Edged Blade T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3
Durrance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fritz's Fantasy S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Late for Dinner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2+
Liken Lichen T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lovely Liana T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Manifest Destiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
P.O.T.C. T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pseudo- Wiessner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rangers Are People Too T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sundance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tunnel Vision T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wiessner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
interesting problem below, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Beyer (solo, as Zephyr 5.9 A1) 6/9/79, FFA: Andy Petefish & Kris Hjelle 9/12/87
Page Views: 496 total, 19/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on Nov 1, 2015
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Wow! A lead of this rig would be very impressive. 150' of non-stop, hard stemming up the flared chute. Having many #5 and #6 HB Rp's would be helpful. The more desperate climbing is in the first half. Catch a decent rest at the 1/4" buttonhead, halfway up, then place gear in the left crack after that. A second pitch continues off the hanging belay for another 140', goes at 11a, and takes more hand size gear.

Location

One of the many chutes in the center of the Durrance Approach wall. Right in between Blue Stem Skyway and Graeme's Line. 80m rope barely makes it down.

Protection

All the small nuts you can gather. Preferably offset.
Cams up .4 & a single #1 (for the 1st pitch)
Probably a standard double rack for the 2nd pitch.
One 1/4" buttonhead
3/8" bolted anchor, in fair condition

Photos

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Lucas Barth
Devils Tower, WY
Lucas Barth   Devils Tower, WY
Anchor replaced by Frank Sanders 10/2016. Oct 24, 2016