Northeast Crack Bouldering

I like cracks and I like boulders. Got any favorites? Updating the list sporadically with links to include some of the most attractive highlights from across New England / the Northeast... I've only been on a handful so far but some of these are gold!

Franconia Notch, NH

• The Torcher V8 (ringlock/handcrack roof) 
• Gar Crack V0+ (ringlock/handcrack)
• Captive to Ego V6 (tips/underclings)
• OSOM V0+ (fingers)

Pawtuckaway, NH

• Bones to Bits V2-3 R (squeeze chimney, highball)
• The Whip V2 (fingers)
• Chasm Crack V5 (steep fingers)
• Crack of Pain V3 (fingers)
• Shadows, Everywhere V3 (offwidth invert)
• Fleet Street V3 (offwidth invert)
• Classic V0 (fingers)
• Cream V0+ (hands)
• Barnyard Crack V1+ (crack traverse)
• Classic Crack V2 (seam)
• Warrior V3 (highball fingers)
• The Next Message V8 (powerful fingerlock moves)
• Splitter V0 (hands)
• Beer Crack aka General Sherman V4 (fingers)
• Granny's Grunt V3 (fingers)
• A River Runs Through It V3 (offwidth)
• Z Cavaricci V3 (fingers, see photo in Fire Tower area)
• Alcove Crack V0+ (hands)
• Buddha's Belly V3-4 (layback)
• Crack V2 (fingers?)
• Masterlock V2 (fingers)
• Pedestal Problem V1-2 (fingers)
• Sex Panther / Full Panther Pist V-hard? (roofcracks)
• See also Magic Pond for some off-the-grid crack boulders

Kinsman Notch, NH (see the guidebook by Dogarf)

• Mono-lith Crack V2+ (tips to fingers)
• Oliver's Crack V0- (fists)
• Black Dahlia V? (steep fingers)
• Control Line V2- (hands)
• Neon Guts V?R (chossy fingercrack roof)
• The Unbound Heart V3- (offwidth invert)
• Meditative Cow Crack V0 (hands to fingers)
• Bastinado Crack V0+ (fingers)
• Gratrunka V? (handcrack roof)

Greater North Conway Area, NH

• Lateralus V0 (crack traverse). Also can do a sorta offwidth half-invert on the backside of this - hope your ankles are strong...
• Hidden Cipher V-? (crack traverse)
• Community Crack V2 (megalowball fingers)
• Tree Crack V3 (handcrack roof)

Rumney, NH

• Zig Zag Crack V1 (fingers)
• Black Jack Crack 5.10+ V2 R (fingers, highball... More like a microroute)
• Pound Crack V1 (fingers to hands)
• The Diagonal V3 (hands)
• Hemlock Crack V0 (fingers)
• EDCL V2 (fingers)
• Pine Tree Crack V0 (fingers)
• Valley Jams V2 (offwidth)
• Garden of your Mind V5 (layback)

Southern NH (excluding Pway)

• Bruisemaster 5.11/5.12 V4+ (flared handcrack roof)
• Hewes Hill Roofcrack 5.12 V5 (handcrack roof?)

Eastern MA (Cape Ann, Lynn Woods, etc)

• Thee Off-Width 5.12 V4-5 (offwidth invert) 
• Caveman Crack V2 (hands?)
• Nocturnal Me V4 (offwidth roof)
• Doug's Roof V2 (handcrack roof)
• Doug's Nose V2 (offwidth invert)
• Oingo Boingo V4/5 (fingers)
• Hemlock V4 (fingers)
• X Marks the Spot (quasicrack, highball)
• Thunder Cat Crack V2 (fingers)
• Spiritual Power Crack V0+ (very splitter hands)
• Body Brush 5.10 V1-2 (wide/squeeze)
• Ice Age V3 (thin hands/fingers)
• Phantom Fisting V1- (hands/fists)
• Primitive Man Crack V3 (hands/fists)
• Hitch Spiker V5 (fingers)
• Basket Case V0- (fingers)
• Guillotine V2R (fingers)

Western MA (Farley)

• Unnamed(?) thin hands crack V0- (see page 2)

Northern/Central VT (Bolton, Groton, Abbey Pond, etc)

• Green, Red, Blue 5.8 V0 PG13 (hands, better as a highball, good landing)
• Jamathon 5.7+ V0 PG13 (hands, R-rated scrambling off and down left once you reach the chockstone/tree)
• Fear Pressure aka Grandma's House 5.13- V7-8 (highball)
• The Gobbler V2 (hands/birth canal)
• Cracker Jax V2 (offwidth)
• Withdrawals V1- (hands)
• Passing the Bar V0-1 (chimney)
• The Molusk V3 (roof)
• Dirty Crack V4-5

Adirondacks, NY

• Wook in a Nook 5.11- V2 / King Ghidorah 5.11+ V3 (offwidth inverts)
• The Hunter Exam V1 (hands)
• Chuck Norris Warmup V4-5 (fingercrack traverse)
• Snowy Mountain offwidths
• Poko approach trail offwidth - climbers should not leave the trail at this location as it is private land, but listed as a reference as it has been floated around before

Gunks, NY

• Keelhauled V? (40' roof crack at Lost City below Texas Flake per below thread; see also A Day With The Bank Manager starting at 17:27)
• Keyhole 5.7+ V0 (offwidth)
• Pure Joy V2/3 (handcrack roof)
• Gill Crack V2 (has a few crack moves)
• The start of the Psychedelic Wall can supposedly be done as a V8ish drop-off. Heinous fingers...

Upstate NY (excluding the Gunks and ADK, ie Little Falls, Powerlinez, etc)

• The Splitter V0 (hands/fists)

Pennsylvania

• Astroboy V4 (offwidth/squeeze)
•  Spring Chicken V3-5 (roof crack hands to OW)
• 3 Star 5.10- V1 (highball fingers)

See also below threads for more good info, some info there is referenced here. I'm sure there's some overlap in interest...

- Northeastern Roof Cracks and Invert Offwidths!

- Best Offwidths in New Hampshire / Maine / Mass / New York

Doug's Roof, up in Gloucester is fun

following

Zig Zag Crack

(NH)
Black Jack Crack (NH)
Pound Crack (NH)

Bones to Bits (NH)
The Whip(NH)
Chasm Crack(NH)

DRusso wrote: Zig Zag Crack (NH)
Black Jack Crack (NH)
Pound Crack (NH)

Bones to Bits (NH)
The Whip(NH)
Chasm Crack(NH)

I would be very cautious to call Black Jack Crack a boulder... 30+ feet with the crux near the top is not something that should be promoted for ropeless ascents.

Here are some others that haven't been mentioned previously. Not all of them are traditional "jam, jam, repeat" style cracks, but they all have an element of crack climbing.

Pawtuckaway:
Crack of Pain v3
Shadows, Everywhere v3 
Fleet Street v3
Hobbit Hole v3
Classic v0
Cream v0+
Welcome Crack v4
V-8 v1

Rumney
Garden of Your Mind v5+
Zig-Zag Crack Variation v9
The Diagonal v3
Hemlock Crack v0
The Oracle v9
Easy Rollin' v3
Dog Tracks v0
EDCL v2
Pine Tree Crack v0
Valley Jams v2

A true short  hand stacking - boulder problem.
 nev'h able to send it without grabbing the bucket near the top
still waiting for a ''pure" 'all-crack' send, If you're ever  there

  barely visible; the small triangular spot at the base,
just left of the small patch of snow

The Scoop;
The light-ish rock in the foreground has 3 lines  ;

V3/4? , V$,for sure,
it's in 'Urknowherestan', Wilksbarre PA,
There is some more good climbing to be found;
 a long walk, behind the large shopping center.
 ( it has a sister, a similar crack in Liberty NY, that is closer to more good climbing,  sorry no pictures of that)

ok I get that you want things to be in the database,


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EDIT:

Spring Challenges;
  easy ones 1st,
 The crack on the right

The full Line

Now
Much
Harder, State park/open space
The red line is a crack wide enough to stick a foot in.
 but~
Undercling out to the finger crack & up  staying left of the moss

Tim? never heard from you!
ha~
Cracks you say?
There is a little bit of Everything on this one.
Including tight Fists to Deep Elbows from Start to finish

anyone else know where this is?
(Morgan had to pass it on his way from Norwalk to Bethel/Bald Rock)
 come & give it a V grade
And Speaking of Bethel

.

Anyone know where this thing, "Bachar Cracker of New England," is?  I remember it getting mentioned years ago by BVB.

Isn't that what John Sherman called The Torcher?

3-Star [V1]: a 20 foot tall perfect finger crack at Haycock Mt. PA.

Chicken Stuffer [V3]: A brutally grippy overhanging hand rack about 15 degrees off of horizontal at Mt. Gretna (Governor Dick) PA.

Astroboy [V4]: chimney at the bottom, offwidth in the middle, fists or handstacks above your head and a knee bar invert to pull your body out of the beast. Weird description I know but check out the pictures on MP for a better idea. Mt. Gretna (Governor Dick) PA

Ian Fenimore wrote: 3-Star [V1]: a 20 foot tall perfect finger crack at Haycock Mt. PA.

Chicken Stuffer [V3]: A brutally grippy overhanging hand rack about 15 degrees off of horizontal at Mt. Gretna (Governor Dick) PA.

Astroboy [V4]: chimney at the bottom, offwidth in the middle, fists or handstacks above your head and a knee bar invert to pull your body out of the beast. Weird description I know                                                                                             

Thank You - Thank You Very much, Is It "Sasquatch Country"? or something like that?  & ssshh,  Mnt Gretna,,? no ~ no climbing there at all....And its in Maryland anyway                              (is this where you kids add "lol", ?)

Ha, No, I was thinking of   "Sykesville Monster":The Sykesville Monster! Located on The Jam Boulder, at the Levitation Boulders area in Sykesville, MD.
 the direct, sit start is  the Guillotine (v7). The Guillotine climbs The Jam (V2), then cuts out right following the seam.

That sweet Crack  and the rest? Well, besides being wrong, about the location, so off topic...

 I was saying that you should be secretive,  put more value in "the G Spot" Mnt Gretna, a sweet spot in PA                                                      
   &   (I missed it and it is the title!) the list is kind of leaning    more to the north 'northeast',                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      

  post up & add pictures if you want, maybe you'll get some traffic,(visitors from the north)                                                                                                                                                                                There is Rad rock everywhere

Overdose V0
Beaver Crack V1
Porcupine Crack V0
Mushroom Cap Crack V4 (plus variations)
All at Beaver Brook in southern NH

Sorry I don’t know how to put in the links.

Krystian’s Krack V3, Lynn Woods, MA

much closer to v4+ then 5.11+ from the sit. Can boulder up to turning the roof an either a) hop off, b) TR (I clipped into a gri gri on a fixed line) c) solo to the top, probably about 5.8 but usually needs to be cleaned ahead of time.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108201043/bruisemaster

Lateralus VO Humphrey's Ledge base
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/113287618/lateralus

This one sucks: mountainproject.com/route/1…

The oracle isn't really a crack boulder, but a new hard crack boulder went up over by Escape From Reality below parking lot wall.
Crack bouldering rocks! Post'em up!

Pnelson wrote: Anyone know where this thing, "Bachar Cracker of New England," is?  I remember it getting mentioned years ago by BVB.

This is at Cannon Mountain: The Torcher

Pink granitic gneiss crack route I found today in Colebrook, CT

Nate: That looks like good rock.

`

`

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The Richter Rabbit, Richter Park,Nature Trails&Golf Course,

The crack is 'good hands' a bad 2-4inchs, wide

V4,The Sit-start kicks it up to V6/7

There are a bunch in eastern MA. . A couple were mentioned above. Here are some of the more memorable...I’m sure there are others too....

Oingo Boingo, V4/5, Lynn
Hemlock, V4, Dykes
Hybrid, V4, Crooked
Tombstone, V1, Lynn
X Marks the Spot, V4/5, Lynn
Thunder Cat Crack, V2, Lynn
Dogleg, V5, Lynn

Nathan Hackmeister wrote:

Pink granitic gneiss crack route I found today in Colebrook, CT

Hard to tell from photos....small fingers? Couple moves from a full sit? How hard? Luv me some crack.

Tim McGivern wrote:

Hard to tell from photos....small fingers? Couple moves from a full sit? How hard? Luv me some crack.

I’m 6’1” and found at least one section of the crack where i could get four fingers up to the second knuckle, most of it is juust a bit narrower than that.  Theres a narrow slot crack at the top left (first) and slightly wider at the right (second).  Around 8’ tall with clear landing and safe walk off the top, as far as I know the FA is still available. Looks on the tougher but do-able side for me, so might land somewhere around v3-v5. Looks like theres a also a low left-to-right traverse going from crack to crack that could be much harder.Placeholder name so far after my dog who was with me - the German name for the Miniature Pinscher dog breed, “little biter”.  Ice axe and my other dog (40lb husky shepherd) for scale.
https://www.mountainproject.com/area/116575415/zwergpinscher