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Routes in The Black Jack Boulder

Black Jack Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b V2 5+
Hour Glass Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Eyed Jack T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V3 6A R
Queen of Spades T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Rain Man V4- 6B
Space Between, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Suicide Kings T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Three of Clubs TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Boulder, 30 ft
FA: Chuck Fisher, 1974
Page Views: 9,641 total, 72/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Dec 20, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Black Jack Crack is the best trad route at Rumney. Never mind that some people boulder the thing.

Locate the 30 foot tall splitter crack on the west face of the huge boulder. Follow the crack through various sizes to a crux at the top. Though it receives a boulder rating of V2, most people prefer to bring gear rather than face the offensive possibilty of a 30 foot grounder at the crux.

Protection

The route is well protected with small to medium cams. If you should choose to boulder it, bring as many pads as you can find, and for the love of God, don't fall.
I can't stand the boulder rating scale. This being a V2 is absurd. Aug 14, 2017
Wow, phenomenal finger crack! Single rack to #2 or #3 c4 if building an anchor should be more than enough to sew it up. The holds on the face definitely bring down the difficulty a notch, especially because it is so short. Ton a fun though and absolutely classic, definitely worth bringing a small rack to Rumney just for this! Oct 25, 2017
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
Damn this crack is awesome. Can't get it out of my head.... Oct 30, 2013
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
There is a pretty easy scramble to the top of this boulder on the back side. There is no bolt on top, but there are some great placements to build a trad anchor up there if you want to TR. Bring some extra cord/webbing to extend it, and maybe something to protect your cord/webbing over the edge!

Can't wait to try it on lead, but I need to work on my crack technique first. It's a tough route! Oct 12, 2013
Matt Glue
Boulder, CO
 
Matt Glue   Boulder, CO
 
If it were twice as long, it would be known throughout the country. As is, it's a Northeast classic. If you have a rack of cams and are at Rumney, just do this. Sep 30, 2013
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
At Rumney, there is nothing splitterer.

doubles not needed IMHO. Single rack from .3 - 2 plus nuts will sew this puppy up. Can use #3 for the anchor. Aug 12, 2013
Dom
New Brunswick Canada
Dom   New Brunswick Canada  
Rack from 0.3 to #2 with doubles in 0.4 and 0.75 will suffice. The #1 and #2 are for the gear anchor but other sizes would work (Lots of gear on top).

Medium to large nuts would also work in that crack. Apr 10, 2012
GabeO
New Haven, CT
 
GabeO   New Haven, CT
 
What size? Pretty thin? Looks like it gets wider near the top?

GO Jun 13, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i have done it on just nuts but cams are very helpful for sure... Jun 8, 2010
Patrick Feeney
hartland vt
Patrick Feeney   hartland vt
i have been past this boulder many times.now that i have a nut set.is there good placement for using nuts Jun 6, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Led it on just nuts for kicks today... made it interesting... Oct 19, 2009
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
The gear is so fricken good on this thing that it's a sport climb if you know anything about placing cams. Also if you have cams a TR is wicked easy to set up, believe we usually use #'s 1-3 and extend the bol out left to keep the rope out of the crack. And for a fun variation, its an even sweater climb without using any crimp, just straight up crack! Sep 21, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
This is one of the best routes at Rumney in my opinion...I climbed it at least 30 times this year...if you love cracks you'll love this route.... Jan 10, 2007