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Routes in The Split Boulder

Anorexorcist V7 7A+
Bones to Bits V2-3 5+
Bulemia V5 6C
Confident Man V11 8A
Flakes of Life V1-2 5
Halcyon V11 8A
Heart of Darkness V12 8A+
Jaded V1 5
Morgue, The V3 6A
My Little Pony V9-10 7C+
Outback V2-3 5+
Rio's Problem V7+ 7A+
Stegasaurus V9 7C
Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,719 total, 22/month
Shared By: Tristan Perry on Oct 11, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

One of the very best boulder problems at Pawtuckaway. Don't climb too far unless you're sure of what you're doing. A funky layback/kneebar keeps the"riff raff" away at the bottom. A classic squeeze chimney follows which then pinches off at the top. You must then leave the security of the chimney for the crux - a surprisingly awkward scrunch move makes the transition to the mossy slab above. You really wouldn't want to pop off here. Relish the summit (like being on the roof of a house!), then consider the options of getting down, possibly via the epic downclimb of a fat chimney on the opposite side.

Location

Look behind you if you're looking at the problems on the backside of the Ride the Lightning Boulder.

Protection

Downclimbing ability
Graham O.
  V2-3 X
Graham O.  
  V2-3 X
Completely and utterly awesome. The squeeze chimney is classic! Oct 29, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
super safe as long as long as you dont fall haha...
the down climb was much scarier in my opinion... I down climbed a chimney that felt about 5.7 that is a good bit taller than this line... Jul 30, 2014
This appears to be one of the most dangerous highball (hairball) problems in the park, or at least in Boulder Natural. Jul 29, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
my lil video of this amazing problem...
youtube.com/watch?v=_M1ALUw… May 6, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Perhaps my favorite "trad climb" in pawtuckaway! Apr 10, 2012
maineah
Maine
 
maineah   Maine
 
Great Route! ... if you are into off widths, that is. The chimney was great; by inhaling deeply, I was able to get no hand and no feet torso jams. The top out is spooky though, so make sure you've got the head for it. Jun 20, 2010
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Great problem, but without the mental part i think that it's only maybe .8 more like .7+ OW off the ground to a super secure chimney with good if spooky jams to the top. Aug 27, 2009