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Bones to Bits

V2-3, Boulder, 20 ft (6 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 33 votes
FA: unknown
New Hampshire > Pawtuckaway > Boulder Natural > Split Boulder
Warning Access Issue: Parking Issues: Starting 10/24/20 a reservation will be required to park at Reservation Rd. on all days and for the Backside on the weekends. See DetailsDrop down

Description

One of the very best boulder problems at Pawtuckaway. Don't climb too far unless you're sure of what you're doing. A funky layback/kneebar keeps the"riff raff" away at the bottom. A classic squeeze chimney follows which then pinches off at the top. You must then leave the security of the chimney for the crux - a surprisingly awkward scrunch move makes the transition to the mossy slab above. You really wouldn't want to pop off here. Relish the summit (like being on the roof of a house!), then consider the options of getting down, possibly via the epic downclimb of a fat chimney on the opposite side.

Location

Look behind you if you're looking at the problems on the backside of the Ride the Lightning Boulder.

Protection

Downclimbing ability

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Justin Guarino on 'Bones to Bits'
[Hide Photo] Justin Guarino on 'Bones to Bits'
Getting through the exposed crux
[Hide Photo] Getting through the exposed crux
the chimney
[Hide Photo] the chimney
trying it and deciding i dont want to break my ankles haha
[Hide Photo] trying it and deciding i dont want to break my ankles haha
adam getting into the knee bar
[Hide Photo] adam getting into the knee bar
Bones to Bits. Offwidth to chimney. 5.9 if you know how to climb this sort of thing. Don't fall.
[Hide Photo] Bones to Bits. Offwidth to chimney. 5.9 if you know how to climb this sort of thing. Don't fall.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
[Hide Comment] Great problem, but without the mental part i think that it's only maybe .8 more like .7+ OW off the ground to a super secure chimney with good if spooky jams to the top. Aug 27, 2009
maineah
Maine
 
[Hide Comment] Great Route! ... if you are into off widths, that is. The chimney was great; by inhaling deeply, I was able to get no hand and no feet torso jams. The top out is spooky though, so make sure you've got the head for it. Jun 20, 2010
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
 
[Hide Comment] Perhaps my favorite "trad climb" in pawtuckaway! Apr 10, 2012
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
 
[Hide Comment] my lil video of this amazing problem...
youtube.com/watch?v=_M1ALUw… May 6, 2012
Russ Keane
Salt Lake
[Hide Comment] This appears to be one of the most dangerous highball (hairball) problems in the park, or at least in Boulder Natural. Jul 29, 2014
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
 
[Hide Comment] super safe as long as long as you dont fall haha...
the down climb was much scarier in my opinion... I down climbed a chimney that felt about 5.7 that is a good bit taller than this line... Jul 30, 2014
[Hide Comment] Can you protect the top out with normal sized gear? Looks like there might be a crack in the back of the chimney but hard to tell from the ground. Thanks. Jun 10, 2019
Big Red
Seattle
[Hide Comment] Hardest move is getting into the chimney - super secure once you're inside. And easy enough to down-climb if the topout wigs you out. Get on it! Dec 21, 2020
take TAKE
Mass
[Hide Comment] I'm surprised to see pictures on here of people facing to the right on this. I faced left and it felt very natural (and very much easier than v3). Oct 20, 2024