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Routes in The Split Boulder

Anorexorcist V7 7A+
Bones to Bits V2-3 5+
Bulemia V5 6C
Confident Man V11 8A
Flakes of Life V1-2 5
Halcyon V11 8A
Heart of Darkness V12 8A+
Jaded V1 5
Morgue, The V3 6A
My Little Pony V9-10 7C+
Outback V2-3 5+
Rio's Problem V7+ 7A+
Stegasaurus V9 7C
Type: Boulder, 6 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,615 total, 14/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Feb 11, 2008
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Description

A fun, short power problem that climbs a bottomless block. Sit start with both hands matched on a sloping jug rail on the bottom right corner. Heel hook next to your hands to pull on and dangle before making a move out to the edges, bump left hand again, then match. Rock up on the heel and around the arete to a crimp (crux) or the lip if you're long.

This problem is at 1:48
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i27SMGhAiWM&feature=c4-overview&list=UUU4KZxktZD9BW3WXyhnQzMA

Location

This boulder is a chunk of the Split Boulder, behind Halcyon and My Little Pony. If facing those problems, walk right about ten feet.

Protection

Pad

Photos

Graham O.  
 
Decent climb, awesome boulder! Jul 7, 2016
Tyler Moody  
 
There is a small, easily overlooked bulge to the right of the arete that can make this problem possible if you don't have the wingspan or power to reach the rail at the end. You can see Mike's hand on it in the 'BAM' picture. There isn't much surface area to pull on, but it's enough to let you shift your hips over your right foot before finishing. Nov 29, 2015
Jake Perry
Concord, NH
  V7-
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
  V7-
Careful on this climb, I pulled my hamstring on it from the heel hook you use during the crux...

Make sure you warm up well and stretch before trying anything with an intense heel hook like this.

Also the FA was Brett Meyers. Nov 10, 2015
Ryan Malloy
Worcester, MA
Ryan Malloy   Worcester, MA
This climb definitely falls in the category of "Hmm, this doesn't look that hard..." (20 seconds later) "I'm an idiot." Nov 25, 2014
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
 
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
 
Yep. Two hands and a heel where his heel is now to start, then move left to where his left hand is before reaching for the crimp as seen. Jun 14, 2009
So do you start with your hands matched on the rail where his heel hook is in the picture? Jun 13, 2009