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Routes in The Split Boulder

Anorexorcist V7 7A+
Bones to Bits V2-3 5+
Bulemia V5 6C
Confident Man V11 8A
Flakes of Life V1-2 5
Halcyon V11 8A
Heart of Darkness V12 8A+
Jaded V1 5
Morgue, The V3 6A
My Little Pony V9-10 7C+
Outback V2-3 5+
Rio's Problem V7+ 7A+
Stegasaurus V9 7C
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Rio
Page Views: 1,694 total, 17/month
Shared By: andyscott on Dec 18, 2009
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Start with a good undercling for your left hand and a big slopey gaston a little lower with your right hand. Make a move with your right hand to a sharp sidepull/crimp strait above you. Next come up to another slopey sidepull/pinch with your left. Work your feet up and make a move to an edge, match, then on to easier finishing moves.

Location

A little farther to the left of Confident Man right over the stream.

Protection

Pad
Graham O.
  V7-
Graham O.  
  V7-
Fun problem. Move to the crimp below the lip is the one real v7 move. Oct 26, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V8
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V8
This climb is really good. It's got engaging and technical movement on high quality rock, some unique holds and just the right amount of height.

With a bit more traffic, some of the sharpness would be reduced and the top would stay a bit more moss and pine needle free. In my opinion, definitely v8, and one of the better climbs at that grade in Pawtuckaway. Jun 28, 2012
Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
Eric Heiden   Derry, NH
Thanks Lee & Mark.

My friend in the video just downclimbed a move or two and jumped onto the pads with me spotting. Dec 12, 2011
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  V7
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  V7
Most people downclimb the offwidth/chimney between Halcyon/My Little Pony and Anorexorcist. I think it takes longer to get down by far. Dec 8, 2011
Lanky
Tired
Lanky   Tired
I've long been curious: how the hell do you get down from this boulder? Dec 8, 2011
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Yeah, well done. Thanks. Dec 7, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
great video! love your editing style! Dec 7, 2011
Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
Eric Heiden   Derry, NH
Rio's Problem @ 1:00:
vimeo.com/33263058 Dec 7, 2011
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  V7
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  V7
I updated the map to show V7, so you can change the grade if you want. When I was showed the problem, they told me "at least V6" but they weren't sure. Way harder than RTL but easier than any V8. I might have had different beta though. There are two good feet out left and a higher left sidepull after the first. There were no big moves and my feet never cut. Nov 1, 2010
andyscott
Massachusetts
 
andyscott   Massachusetts
 
Does anyone have anymore info about this problem? I graded it at v6 just because that is what it is graded on the Boulder Natural map but it feels wayyyy harder than RTL or even Maxim. Apr 24, 2010