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Routes in Cliff Boulders

Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Mack Johnson 1983
Page Views: 607 total, 12/month
Shared By: Christian Prellwitz on Sep 15, 2013 with updates
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Let's be honest. There aren't a lot of truly good cracks to be found amongst the bouldering at Pway. This drives people to do crazy things, like thinking they actually want to climb 'Crack Of Pain' at Blair Woods. Why fawn over that quartz nightmare when you can actually climb a really good, comfortable finger crack?

This crack isn't super long, but it is quite fun and challenging, and not even that sharp. (Well, maybe a little. But nowhere near as bad as 'Crack Of Pain'!)

Stand start with some good fingerlocks and work your way up through some decent locks and small feet to a wonderful top out jug.

There is an easier variation that uses some holds to the left (mostly the arete), but the best way to climb this sweet little line is straight up, crack only!

Location

Located above Upper Cliff, in the same amphitheater as 'Vulcan Tip Rip'. This climb is the obvious crack located on the left side.

Protection

A pad or two. Maybe a spotter so you don't hit the tree if you fall near the top.

Photos

Graham O.  
 
I loved the movement on this one. Great locks the whole way with somewhat hidden feet. One of the best v3's in Pway, IMO.

Footage starts at 0.58:
photos.google.com/share/AF1… Oct 26, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
Using the arete and other holds to the left is probably closer to v1. Sep 15, 2013