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Routes in The Zoo

Type: Boulder, 18 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,834 total · 50/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 12, 2007 with updates from Graham O.
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


197 Opinions

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Description

Crux is the beta, work your own out because everyone's is different for this climb. The climb is amongst the majority of the boulders in Boulder Natural (an area referred to as Gandalf's Lair). It is an obvious up and left slanting lower crack the follows the arete and jugs to the top of the boulder (downclimb route). Lots of climbers find the lower sidepull helpful to use with your left hand to pull the crux move out of the horizontal handcrack.

Location

Gandalf's Lair, a.k.a."Boulder Natural" (look for smooth, well-chalked, hand/finger horizontal crack).

[Further info on location: It is located at the outskirts of the Zoo, on the largest boulder in the cluster. It is across the corridor from the obvious lobster tail feature. To the right of 'Hobbit Direct', and just right of 'Texas Chainsaw Massacre'. If you can find The Zoo, just walk through the corridor and you should see the chalked up, left-slanting crack.]

Protection

Pads, landing is comfortable
BrianWinslow
Concord, NH
 
BrianWinslow   Concord, NH
 
one of my favorite climbs in the park. Mar 18, 2008
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
Best V3 I have ever done May 2, 2009
AWinters
NH
  V2-3
AWinters   NH  
  V2-3
should feel a lot easier for taller folks. for an added challenge skip the middle moves... Oct 27, 2010
Tyrel Fuller
Denver, CO
 
Tyrel Fuller   Denver, CO
 
This problem is certainly not a hand crack, it's a mix of face and fingerlocks. That being said, it is absolutely classic. May 2, 2011
Maybe my memory is going and maybe it's not but for some strange reason it seems that the really bad foot used to make the cross into the upper crack, of this problem, has grown and got bigger...

Anyone else notice this... I just don't recall the foot being this massive edge...

Aug 17, 2011
Ryan HInrichs
amherst new hampshire
 
Ryan HInrichs   amherst new hampshire
 
Still trying to figure out the beta for this one. Havent sent it yet, but its still a blast! Sep 12, 2011
Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
 
Eric Heiden   Derry, NH
 
Hobbit Hole starting at ~1:00:
vimeo.com/28273599 Dec 19, 2011
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
Hay Eric is that Mr bonnet that teaches in the Pembroke school district? Dec 19, 2011
Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
Chris McNeil   Anchorage, AK
I was working this the other day, and when I arrived the start he below the crack had a crack in it was popped off with a touch. Although after reading the beta listed it seems that everyone starts on the crack anyways... Certainly doesn't seem to effect the grade Oct 25, 2012
J Meagher
  V3
J Meagher  
  V3
If only the feet weren't all so polished.... Either way, great route! Nov 13, 2013
Graham O.  
 
Great little problem! Really cool movement. Jul 23, 2016
It really sucks that someone decided to pop that chockstone out at the start to make the problem easier. Shame on the climbing community Apr 1, 2018

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