Type: Boulder, 18 ft (5 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 9,518 total · 54/month
Shared By: Ladd Raine on Apr 12, 2007 · Updates
Admins: BDalhaus, Brad Fauteux, Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Please read the Covid warning in detail below - Parking Issues: Starting 10/24/20 a reservation will be required to park at Reservation Rd. on all days and for the Backside on the weekends. See Details


Crux is the beta, work your own out because everyone's is different for this climb. The climb is amongst the majority of the boulders in Boulder Natural (an area referred to as Gandalf's Lair). It is an obvious up and left slanting lower crack the follows the arete and jugs to the top of the boulder (downclimb route). Lots of climbers find the lower sidepull helpful to use with your left hand to pull the crux move out of the horizontal handcrack.


Gandalf's Lair, a.k.a."Boulder Natural" (look for smooth, well-chalked, hand/finger horizontal crack).

[Further info on location: It is located at the outskirts of the Zoo, on the largest boulder in the cluster. It is across the corridor from the obvious lobster tail feature. To the right of 'Hobbit Direct', and just right of 'Texas Chainsaw Massacre'. If you can find The Zoo, just walk through the corridor and you should see the chalked up, left-slanting crack.]


Pads, landing is comfortable