Type: Boulder, 18 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,375 total · 50/month
Shared By: Ladd Raine on Apr 12, 2007 with improvements by Graham O.
Admins: BDalhaus, J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

216 Opinions

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Crux is the beta, work your own out because everyone's is different for this climb. The climb is amongst the majority of the boulders in Boulder Natural (an area referred to as Gandalf's Lair). It is an obvious up and left slanting lower crack the follows the arete and jugs to the top of the boulder (downclimb route). Lots of climbers find the lower sidepull helpful to use with your left hand to pull the crux move out of the horizontal handcrack.


Gandalf's Lair, a.k.a."Boulder Natural" (look for smooth, well-chalked, hand/finger horizontal crack).

[Further info on location: It is located at the outskirts of the Zoo, on the largest boulder in the cluster. It is across the corridor from the obvious lobster tail feature. To the right of 'Hobbit Direct', and just right of 'Texas Chainsaw Massacre'. If you can find The Zoo, just walk through the corridor and you should see the chalked up, left-slanting crack.]


Pads, landing is comfortable
Concord, NH
BrianWinslow   Concord, NH
one of my favorite climbs in the park. Mar 18, 2008
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Best V3 I have ever done May 2, 2009
AWinters   NH  
should feel a lot easier for taller folks. for an added challenge skip the middle moves... Oct 27, 2010
Tyrel Fuller
Denver, CO
Tyrel Fuller   Denver, CO
This problem is certainly not a hand crack, it's a mix of face and fingerlocks. That being said, it is absolutely classic. May 2, 2011
Maybe my memory is going and maybe it's not but for some strange reason it seems that the really bad foot used to make the cross into the upper crack, of this problem, has grown and got bigger...

Anyone else notice this... I just don't recall the foot being this massive edge...

Aug 17, 2011
Ryan HInrichs
Grand Junction CO
Ryan HInrichs   Grand Junction CO
Still trying to figure out the beta for this one. Havent sent it yet, but its still a blast! Sep 12, 2011
Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
Eric Heiden   Derry, NH
Hobbit Hole starting at ~1:00:
vimeo.com/28273599 Dec 19, 2011
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
Hay Eric is that Mr bonnet that teaches in the Pembroke school district? Dec 19, 2011
Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
Chris McNeil   Anchorage, AK
I was working this the other day, and when I arrived the start he below the crack had a crack in it was popped off with a touch. Although after reading the beta listed it seems that everyone starts on the crack anyways... Certainly doesn't seem to effect the grade Oct 25, 2012
Graham O.  
Great little problem! Really cool movement. Jul 23, 2016
jessie briggs  
It really sucks that someone decided to pop that chockstone out at the start to make the problem easier. Shame on the climbing community Apr 1, 2018
Dan Knisell
Townsend, MA
Dan Knisell   Townsend, MA
Yes the chockstone is gone near the beginning. Climbs the same for the most part. I don’t blame the climbing community. It’s the individual who removed it. Jul 22, 2018