Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,863 total · 29/month
Shared By: Noah Doherty on Oct 15, 2013
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

16 Opinions

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Climb the gorgeous fingercrack from a sit start. The crux comes down low, the second and third move. From the start on a left hand pinch and a finger jam/sidepull, pull hard with a drop knee to a two knuckle ring lock or wierd finger jam. Hang off this for a few painful seconds and slowly cross to another two finger jam higher up. Don't let it pop, and slap to a decent jug sloper deep in the crack. This move isn't too hard, and once you do it, you are in. Cross to the lie back jug and top out on a slightly technical face.


The last boulder in the set. Head into the chasm made by a huge slab and an overhang. Climb the obvious finger crack.


We had 2 pads, with plenty of spotters to move them around. The nature of this climb makes it a little scary, as there is a slab behind you to hit and slide down into the chasm. Tape is nice, unless you are Mike Thompson.


Noah Doherty
Nashua, NH
Noah Doherty   Nashua, NH
Listed in the underground guidebook as a black diamond, so I guess V6 felt right. If you are from out west and climb splitter finger cracks all the time, it is probably V4. Oct 15, 2013
Bangor, ME
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
Worth seeking out! Where else in Pway can you climb an overhanging finger crack, followed by a high, technical topout? My fingers didn't fit the crack too well which changed the bottom sequence and made the top section all about crimping. Oct 20, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
This climb is really good and very unique for Pway. While some crack technique is useful, this climb is still very bouldery and powerful, and it's likely that being an Indian Creek crusher wouldn't be all that helpful since it doesn't really climb that way.

With some traffic, this should clean up really nicely. I don't think the landing is that bad at all. If you are strong enough to make it through the bottom (which is easy to protect), the top should feel pretty easy. I climbed it alone with two pads.

On a side note, I found the fingerlock to be pretty painful. But, I also didn't use any tape. Aug 12, 2014
Being that im not remotely close to a crack climber, this felt quite easy for the 6 grade. Considering some of the other 6's in the park.....felt closer to a 4-5. This takes nothing away from the climb. It's a great line and well worth seeking out. Nov 9, 2014
Jake Perry
Concord, NH
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
Where exactly is this, say in reference to Mouthful of Chalk? I can't find this problem, Posiedon, or even the chasm boulder even though I've gone out to the swamp boulders multiple times. I think I've found Posiedon once but can't find it again :( I wouldn't doubt that I've walked by this boulder a bunh of times but I need some more help to point me in the right direction as I would really like to try some of the awesome lines on this boulder (especially this crack). Any help would be super appreciated! Aug 23, 2015
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
'Chasm Crack' and 'Poseidon' are not in the same grouping that 'Mouthful Of Chalk' is in. They are located a few minutes walk away, in the direction of Devil's Den (and away from Boulder Natural) through some very swampy ground. As a result, the easiest way to reach them is to take the normal trail from Boulder Natural towards Devil's Den. Keep an eye out for boulders on your left. You'll see the large boulders that contain 'Mouthful Of Chalk' in the distance. Continue to walk for a couple minutes and you'll see another grouping on your left. These are the boulders with 'Chasm Crack' and 'Poseidon'. You won't really be able to see either of those problems from the trail, but you'll know them when you see them. If you get to the Ridgeline boulders, you've gone too far.

Hope that helps. Aug 24, 2015
Graham O.  
Really awesome crack climb that's definitely unique to P-Way. Jul 9, 2016
Alec Woolley
Alec Woolley   Allenstown
This climb is phenomenal! With the right crack technique it felt v4 and not painful at all. However, it is easier to find the painful locks first which will absolutely make you try hard and feel v6. Just try some different techniques and you might unlock the mellow sequence. Taped left pinky really helped to pull onto the wall, that point still digs into the skin. Nov 26, 2017