Type: Boulder, 15 ft (5 m)
FA: Brad Fauteux
Page Views: 461 total · 18/month
Shared By: Brad Fauteux on Sep 30, 2018
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Please read the Covid warning in detail below - Parking Issues: Starting 10/24/20 a reservation will be required to park at Reservation Rd. on all days and for the Backside on the weekends. See Details

Description

Start as for "Sar-Chasm", do the same first move out left to a large meathook. Flip the righthand into an undercling above the starting hold before getting a left heelhook out left on a glassy rail. From here deadpoint off the heel to a glassy lefthand sidepull Once here execute some extremely difficult foot moves up onto the start. Stay tight in the scoop feature and make a very strenuous and friction dependent move up to a bad sloper.

If you come out of the box in this position you will lose the friction and spin-off the boulder, stepping or kicking the slab directly behind will prevent an awkward fall, but could potentially result in a bruised heel(this happened to me on my first session).

Once this sloper is latched properly with the righthand, match and set the left foot in order to make another long tenuous and precarious lock-off out left to a large juggy sidepull in the upper part of the crack. Stay tight and fight another barndoor to match before reaching up righthand to a large pocket. Once on this pocket get a high foot and lock-off all the way up and left to a large jug and the lip of the tall boulder.

This problem is slightly contrived because an easier exit out left exists(Sar-Chasm), but personally this problem, although very difficult, flows naturally and very well and also incorporates a lot of full-body tension and the constant fear of greasing-off of smooth and friction dependent holds similar to "Stegasaurus" and "Lady Slipper".

Sorry for the beta spray down, but the specific line of travel could be confusing otherwise. Climbing the first half of "Sar-Chasm" then heading back right to the sloper for the big lock-off to the crack while avoiding the intro of glassy sidepulls, underclings and heelhooks is not the same problem. That is more of a variation to Sar-chasm that does not flow well but ends with the same sloper lock-off. (This is the only way this problem has been repeated so far, which technically is not a repeat for the second ascent.)

Protection

The landing for the inside of the Chasm is quite awkward and hard to pad. Atleast 5 pads are recommended.

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