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Routes in The Swamp Boulders

Type: Boulder, 13 ft
FA: Christian Prellwitz
Page Views: 721 total, 14/month
Shared By: Christian Prellwitz on Nov 4, 2013
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

This fun climb requires a bit of power for the start and good technique/footwork thereafter.

Start sitting at the base of the hanging slab with your right hand on a good pinch on the arete (at about 3 feet) and your left hand on a low sidepull (at about 2 feet). Pull off the ground somewhat awkwardly and proceed directly up the slab using the arete out right and the hanging arete feature out left. A hidden undercling out left may be helpful for the starting moves.

Decipher a couple slab moves (a little harder for short folk) and top out using the juggy lip.

This can also be done from a stand start (v1+).

Location

This climb is located on the Chasm Boulder (same as Chasm Crack, etc). It can be approached by walking upstream from the Yosemite Boulder or via the trail to Devil's Den. It is the obvious slab to the right of Chasm Crack.

Protection

A couple of pads

Photos

Graham O.  
 
Are you referring to that juggy crimp before the top out? If so, than I used that on my send last Sunday and it seemed perfectly sturdy just like the rest of the climb. Honestly, even if it did break again, there are so many other hold choices that it wouldn't really affect the grade. Either way, this thing was a blast! This boulder is a moderate climber's heaven. Jul 26, 2016
Ross Johnston
New Hampshire
Ross Johnston   New Hampshire
Be careful on that broken crimp flake, feels like it may break again. Dec 13, 2015
Travis Dustin
Hollis, NH
Travis Dustin   Hollis, NH
A hold broke off of this yesterday. I dont think it is an important hold to the climb, it might even make theclimb a bit easier. It was the small crimp flake below the good one asyou move up the slab. The scar now is good to grab as you are balancing up onto the slab Nov 17, 2014
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
Last time I was up there I was working that arete from the right side! I never even considered heading up the slab. Nov 4, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
Though not listed in the unofficial guidebook, I'm sure this has been done before as it's a fairly obvious line. I gave it a name just so I didn't have to call it 'Chasm Slab' or 'Unnamed'.

If anybody has a different name/grade/any additional info, feel free to share! Nov 4, 2013