Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Matrix Area

Breadloaf, The V3 6A
Crazy Game of Poker V6 7A
Lonely Boy V4+ 6B+ PG13
Spring Chicken V5 6C
Type: Boulder, 18 ft
FA: Robert McBride
Page Views: 935 total · 24/month
Shared By: Recon Buck on Oct 17, 2014
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

There are several excellent cracks in the lower Matrix, but this one is the longest, the hardest, and the scariest. I am not sure what you call a sit start below ground level in a cave, but suffice it to say you start quite low. Jam your way up to where it gets wide and you can jam no more; them layback the offwidth until you can top out through the hole in the roof. The jammy part is pretty casual because the ground follows you up as you climb out of the hole so the fall isn't much of a concern; the layback however has the potential to dissect you in half should you peel off. It is suggested that a pad be used to cover the obvious giant axe feature. The rating is debatable, a crack climber would probably call it 5.11. A visiting climber from the Czech Republic for example flashed it and said it was the funnest thing he had climbed in Pennsylvania, while local bouldering mutants were unable to get off the ground.

Location

In the deepest bowls of the Matrix. Get down into the caves and at the bottom of the deepest hole is an overhanging hand crack which comes up into an offwidth that climbs up through an opening to the daylight above.

Protection

Taping of hands is advised, its a bit course. Spotter holding a pad above the sharp rock.

Photos

skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  V3
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  V3
Rooobert! Hey, I did climb this funky thing after a couple of visits. I really did. It is solid 5.11, now that I have a rack and know how to JAM a crack. And just so you know, Chet and I had your spot on your first ascent, you crack maniac! I hope you are having fun in New Zealand! Honest to god, just today I found a VHS tape of your first ascent with Chet and myself spotting you. You were panting like a dog in heat, but you sent! This was way back in 2002 or 2003. I hope you and your family are well! Dec 15, 2014
Recon Buck  
 
Yeah Seth, I had originally assumed I would do some off-width moves, but it was so full of this really sharp grit that I didn't try. Even the lower crack would shred tape gloves after a couple of laps. Might have cleaned up a bit now. Really fun though. Chet and Bish were there pretending to spot me (Chet was up top and said he had a foot behind me) the first time I topped it out. Then the two of them gave it a try and never having jammed before didn't really get anywhere. I was greatly amused since their warmups were my projects. Good times. Nov 13, 2014
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I was looking at this a couple days ago while I was down in PA, its on the short list for my next trip to Gretna!!! Looks stellar! Nov 12, 2014
Seth Derr
harrisburg, pa
  V2-3
Seth Derr   harrisburg, pa
  V2-3
This thing is so rad. One of the best cracks in Pennsylvania. And it's 5.11. Also, if you don't want to lay it back some offwidth technique can be applied. But yeah that block behind you is concerning for sure. Nov 12, 2014