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Routes in Bruisemasters block

Bruisemaster T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pabble Rastlin' V2 5+
Unknown T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Womb with a View T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
localmotion T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad
FA: Mack Johnson 1985
Page Views: 739 total · 13/month
Shared By: Travis Dustin on Jun 19, 2013 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A flared crack going up the roof

Location

Behind the tree on the bruisemaster block

Protection

Pad or trad gear

Photos

Mack Johnson  
 
I put this rig up in 1985. I scrubbed and dug it out on rappel, did it from standing (5.9?), TRed the crack from the sit-down start, then later soloed it.
I don't really remember how tall it is.
It's really gratifying to see that something I did three decades ago is still delivering fun...and road rash.... Nov 7, 2016
chris magness
  5.12a
chris magness  
  5.12a
My arms are still cut up from this thing. Waaaaaay cool roof problem. Harder than The Bridge on Cathedral with a similar crux. 12a from the sit. Oct 23, 2013
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  5.11
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  5.11
I just had the pleasure of watching this get sent. Close myself, but for another day.

Start as far back as you can in the cave and have at it. For a crack problem I can easily say this is the best boulder problem I have ever been on or seen. If crack climbing is your thing then please make the trip here, you will not be disappointed. Oct 23, 2013
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  5.11
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  5.11
Guidebook: the obvious flared crack out the overhang behind a tree. A painful thrash.

Tape. Jul 23, 2013
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  5.11
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  5.11
Great looking problem route. Scrubbed it last night and cleaned cobwebs off. Threw a tr on it and decided that it may be better boulder'd. Super high quality route of it's kind, can't wait to send.

The description above does not do it justice,
10-12' of near horizontal roof with an off hands crack splitting it. This leads to an engaging flair and lip encounter. There ends up being about 16' of fight with another 16' of low 5th class climbing.

The route is at the left hand side under a roof of the last major crag you get to, back and left of the big boulder. Jul 23, 2013