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Routes in Keyhole Cliff area
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Clune Crank V1 5 |
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Cronin Face V9 7C |
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Dr V V0- 4- |
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Gill Crack (AKA The Brat Gill Variation) V2+ 5+ |
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Gill Egg (AKA Gills Route), The V4 6B |
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Gill Pinch Roof V4 6B |
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Keyhole Crack Left V0 4 |
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Keyhole Crack Right V0 4 |
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Keyhole Offwidth V0 4 |
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Larsen's Problem V1 5 |
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Stacious V0 4 |
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Three Fools V3 6A |
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Winter's Agony V6- 7A |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Boulder, 17 ft |
| FA: | John Gill |
| Page Views: | 4,365 total · 37/month |
| Shared By: | Anthony Baraff on Aug 11, 2009 |
| Admins: | JSH |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling
Details
Please use the bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Description
Starting from the low horizontal, undercling, jam and lunge your way up the left-arching crack at the far right-hand side of the keyhole cliff face. Holds continue above the crack and on the right-hand face to a dark hold 17 feet off the deck. Traverse off right and down climb the slabby face (very carefully) or drop to your pad. It's done.
Location
Right of Cronin's Face on the Keyhole Cliff wall. ![]()
The Keyhole Cliff area: 1. [[Clune Crank (V1)]]106510911, 2. The All (V3), 3. [[Keyhole Crack Left (V0)]]106510929, 4. [[Keyhole Crack Right (V0)]]106510934, 5. Winter's Agony (V6), 6. [[Keyhole Offwidth (V0)]]106510918, 7. Cronin's Face (V9), 8. [[Gill Crack (V2)]]106514078, 9. Low Traverse (V2)
Poughkeepsie, NY
For those interested in a lead, the Gill Crack can be used as a direct (and logical) start to Katzenjammer, which means that if it is a "variation" of any climb, the climb should be Katzenjammer, not Brat. Feb 6, 2010