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Routes in Keyhole Cliff area

Clune Crank V1 5
Cronin Face V9 7C
Dr V V0- 4-
Gill Crack (AKA The Brat Gill Variation) V2 5+
Gill Egg (AKA Gill’s Route), The V4 6B
Gill Pinch Roof V4 6B
Keyhole Crack Left V0 4
Keyhole Crack Right V0 4
Keyhole Offwidth V0 4
Larsen's Problem V1 5
Stacious V0 4
Three Fools V3 6A
Winter's Agony V6- 7A
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Type: Boulder, 17 ft
FA: John Gill
Page Views: 3,880 total · 36/month
Shared By: Anthony Baraff on Aug 11, 2009
Admins: JSH

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14 Opinions

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Description

Starting from the low horizontal, undercling, jam and lunge your way up the left-arching crack at the far right-hand side of the keyhole cliff face. Holds continue above the crack and on the right-hand face to a dark hold 17 feet off the deck. Traverse off right and down climb the slabby face (very carefully) or drop to your pad. It's done.

Protection

Pad and a spot

Photos

rgold
Poughkeepsie, NY
rgold   Poughkeepsie, NY
I don't have a clue about the bouldering V-grades, but the Gill Crack got quite a bit harder after a chockstone a move or two up came out. Also, take the question mark off Gill's name; he definitely made the first ascent.

For those interested in a lead, the Gill Crack can be used as a direct (and logical) start to Katzenjammer, which means that if it is a "variation" of any climb, the climb should be Katzenjammer, not Brat. Feb 6, 2010
SXL
  V3
SXL  
  V3
I second that, it felt like a 5.12ish crack move. The grey Willams guide shows this one as variation to Katzenjammer and grades it 5.11d. Oct 19, 2014
Dean Rosenthal
Poughkeepsie, NY
Dean Rosenthal   Poughkeepsie, NY
It's not too often that you get finger locks, hand jams, and dynamic movement all in one boulder problem! Who knows about the grade, but to me it feels roughly the same difficulty as Gill's Double Clutch or Gill Egg. Dec 13, 2017

More About Gill Crack (AKA The Brat Gill Variation)

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