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Routes in B Pond Cliff

Georgia TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Right-trending Crack Project TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rise Above the Rainbow (aka Vertical Rainbow Crack) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
VRC Direct T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
X Marks the Spot T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
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Type: Trad, TR, 25 ft
FA: Tim McGivern
Page Views: 275 total · 13/month
Shared By: Tim McGivern on Oct 15, 2016
Admins: Dave Twardowski, Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

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Access Issue: Boulders are on private property Details
Access Issue: Sensitive Approach Details

Description

Climb the left-trending crack. The grade is approximate. Highball, top rope, or do a hard lead on gear. The FA claim may be wrong, but that is unlikely. It required deep cleaning for gear placements and hand holds in the crack. Gear was placed on lead. Taller folks may find it easier.

Gear:
The gear is small TCUs (#2 and smaller to #00) and possible a nut or two if you get creative. These are tricky placements. There is potential groundfall if the lower gear blows, hence the PG-13. The crux is protected if it holds!

Location

It is left of Georgia.

Protection

A pad, spotter, or small gear.

Photos

Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
  5.11c
Tim McGivern   Medford, ma
  5.11c
Still a project. Led with one good gear placement protecting the long crux moves. Top out the crux section and upper slab unprotected unless you can dig out a crack and force a nut in. Toprope efforts so far. Could be 5.12. Feels like V5.

Update: the crack is pretty clean now. Nov 5, 2016
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
  5.11c
Tim McGivern   Medford, ma
  5.11c
Sent. Nov 19, 2016
jim.dangle    
Tim,

If you placed the gear on lead, wouldn't it just be a redpoint?

Looks fun.

Jim Feb 25, 2017
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
  5.11c
Tim McGivern   Medford, ma
  5.11c
I suppose it it could be called a redpoint, but I left, put the gear back in, and sent. Dark pink. Whatever. ;) Feb 25, 2017

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