Climbing Near Copperopolis, California

****If climbers violate the terms of the easement (for example, by leaving a gate open, or bringing dogs onto the property), that jeopardizes our ability to climb here.**** The first routes at Jailhouse were established ground-up by Dave Schultz, then of Yosemite. Dave had the vision to look past the chossy nature of the overhanging blocky crag, and see its great potential for steep sport climbing. Others, particularly Tom Herbert, Todd Graham, John Scott, Troy Corliss, Justen Sjong, and Brad Johnson, have also been primary developers.The owners of the property were initially alarmed by the climbing, and closed the cliff in 1992. The Access Fund got the cliff re-opened, but with a number of conditions from the owners, including the longstanding 'no publicitiy' policy. In late 2010, the current owners graciously have signed an access easement allowing climbing on their property with certain conditions, as discussed in the access box above.Jailhouse offers steep, blocky, volcanic sport climbing on basalt. Routes are in the shade in the morning, and in the sun in the afternoon. The low elevation crag is best in the winter (although many routes seep given California's winter rains) or early spring/late fall. It's much too hot in the summer unless you are a reptile. The quality climbing here starts at 12d and currently goes to 14+, although there are some limited easier routes. The two easiest routes at the cliff are frequently closed for nesting raptors. The easiest route is 11c, but there are only 3 routes easier than 12b. Many routes, particularly the many extensions, require a 70m or longer rope. Routes to the top of the cliff need a 100m cord to lower to the ground without stopping at earlier anchors to rethread and lower.  Nearly all routes have fixed draws. Most will find kneepads and well-developed stamina helpful. There is a pit toilet near the approach trail, located at #2 Jailhouse Way about 15 minutes from the parking, but you have to bring your own TP and you MUST pack it out.  Jailhouse is in western Tuolumne County above the Stanislaus River between Lake Tulloch and New Melones Reservoirs. The only legal approach to the cliff is through a locked gate off O'Byrnes Ferry Road west of the prison, but before the road drops and winds south into the hairpin turn down to the lake. Do not try to enter the gate marked Shotgun Creek Estates; this is not the correct gate and is private property. Do not try to enter a single electric gate west of that gate; this is also not the correct gate and is private property.  The correct gate is a double gate west of these incorrect gates, and is best found by following the detailed directions on the Access Fund website. Also reference the site for current conditions or restrictions. Lastly, do not use Google Maps to get there, as it will direct you incorrectly. After you park in the lot and close the third gate, hop on the dirt road and go right after you pass the creek to get to the crag. Repeat, if climbers violate the terms of the easement (for example, by leaving a gate open, or bringing dogs onto the property), that jeopardizes our ability to climb here. TO CLIMB AT JAILHOUSE, YOU NEED THE GATE CODE. The code for the lock is here

Short bluff (30ft high) with a decent amount of trad climbs. The routes are 5 9 - 5.12. With easy walk off. The top has some loose rock and boulders so climb with that in mind. *Posion oak is lurking around this area stay cautious ⚠️  Parking at two mile bar (37.8396670, -120.6394000) is limited. This is a 15-25 min. approach with gradual incline. Loose dirt along traverse at the top before the crag, blue cordelette to help.From parking, walk down the road across the bridge over the canal. 100yards from the bridge the fence is bent down to cross, walk up to the high point of the canal. After crossing the canal go over another down fence. Start heading south-west over an old old road, traverse uphill still south-west. You should see property markers (shovel Handle/stick) 2/3 up. Keep heading south-west below the brush/oak trees until a clearing above a tall chossy/decaying bluff. This indicates you're close, head up hill past a second middle level chossy bluff ( cool cow hang out). Continue uphill left. You should see a blue cordelette to help traverse right and up, then 20 yards to pillars. The climbs are on the third highest bluff. Cow trail is really beaten and will help take you to the crag. GPS base: 37.839793,-120.643324

A small collection of short limestone boulders that are right off the trail. They are hard to miss and unfortunately have a bit of graffiti on them. A few minutes before reaching the creek on the right.