Elevation: 958 ft
GPS: 37.907, -120.558 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 81,220 total · 702/month
Shared By: Tom Addison on Feb 1, 2011 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Access Issue: Private property with public access easement allowing climbing held by the Access Fund. Details

Description

The first routes at Jailhouse were established ground-up by Dave Schultz, then of Yosemite. Dave had the vision to look past the chossy nature of the overhanging blocky crag, and see its great potential for steep sport climbing. Others, particularly Tom Herbert, Todd Graham, John Scott, Troy Corliss, Justen Sjong, and Brad Johnson, have also been primary developers.

The owners of the property were initially alarmed by the climbing, and closed the cliff in 1992. The Access Fund got the cliff re-opened, but with a number of conditions from the owners, including the longstanding 'no publicitiy' policy. In late 2010, the current owners graciously have signed an access easement allowing climbing on their property with certain conditions, as discussed in the access box above.

Jailhouse offers steep, blocky, volcanic sport climbing on basalt. Routes are in the shade in the morning, and in the sun in the afternoon. The low elevation crag is best in the winter (although many routes seep given California's winter rains) or early spring/late fall. It's much too hot in the summer unless you are a reptile. The quality climbing here starts at 12d and currently goes to 14+, although there are some limited easier routes. The two easiest routes at the cliff are frequently closed for nesting raptors. The easiest route is 11d, but there are only 3 routes easier than 12b. Many routes, particularly the many extensions, require a 70m rope. Most will find kneepads and well-developed stamina helpful

Getting There

Jailhouse is in western Tuolumne County above the Stanislaus River between Lake Tulloch and New Melones Reservoirs. The only legal approach to the cliff is through a locked gate off O'Byrnes Ferry Road west of the prison, but before the road drops and winds south into the hairpin turn down to the lake. Do not try to enter the gate marked Shotgun Creek Estates; this is not the correct gate and is private property. The correct gate is west of this gate, and is best found by following the detailed directions on the Access Fund website. Also reference the site for current conditions or restrictions. If climbers violate the terms of the easement (for example, by leaving a gate open, or bringing dogs onto the property), that jeopardizes our ability to climb here. TO CLIMB AT JAILHOUSE, YOU NEED THE GATE CODE. The code for the lock is here.

59 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Jailhouse Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 34
Cuckoo's Nest
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 14
Whipping Boy
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 15
Iron Junkie
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 24
Soap on a Rope
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 5
Electric Chair
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 8
Insecurity
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 7
Misdemeanor
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 18
Fugitive
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 10
Cell Block
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 4
Alcatraz
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 6
Haul of Justice
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 3
Lethal Injection
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 3
The Governor
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 7
Jailbait
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 3
Three Strikes And You're Out
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cuckoo's Nest
 34
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Whipping Boy
 14
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Iron Junkie
 15
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Soap on a Rope
 24
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Electric Chair
 5
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Insecurity
 8
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Misdemeanor
 7
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Fugitive
 18
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Cell Block
 10
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Alcatraz
 4
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Haul of Justice
 6
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Lethal Injection
 3
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
The Governor
 3
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Jailbait
 7
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Three Strikes And You're Out
 3
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
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