Jailhouse Rock Rock Climbing
|GPS:||37.907, -120.558 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||81,220 total · 702/month|
|Shared By:||Tom Addison on Feb 1, 2011 with 1 Suggestions|
|Admins:||M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
For the current gate code and rules, visitaccessfund.org/jailhouse.
Some critical conditions of the easement we need to comply with include:
- No dogs on the property
- Close all gates (typically there are over 200 head of horses on the property), particularly the gate to O'Byrnes Ferry Road
- No loud music
- No fires
- No camping at the cliff, trailhead, or anywhere in the vicinity
- Access allowed only from sun-up to one hour after sundown
- No littering
In addition, seasonal raptor closures on a portion of cliff line may be posted on the property and online if there is active raptor nesting.
Our ability to climb here is contingent on our compliance with the conditions of the easement.
The owners of the property were initially alarmed by the climbing, and closed the cliff in 1992. The Access Fund got the cliff re-opened, but with a number of conditions from the owners, including the longstanding 'no publicitiy' policy. In late 2010, the current owners graciously have signed an access easement allowing climbing on their property with certain conditions, as discussed in the access box above.
Jailhouse offers steep, blocky, volcanic sport climbing on basalt. Routes are in the shade in the morning, and in the sun in the afternoon. The low elevation crag is best in the winter (although many routes seep given California's winter rains) or early spring/late fall. It's much too hot in the summer unless you are a reptile. The quality climbing here starts at 12d and currently goes to 14+, although there are some limited easier routes. The two easiest routes at the cliff are frequently closed for nesting raptors. The easiest route is 11d, but there are only 3 routes easier than 12b. Many routes, particularly the many extensions, require a 70m rope. Most will find kneepads and well-developed stamina helpful
Classic Climbing Routes at Jailhouse Rock
Days w Precip