Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,392 total · 11/month
Shared By: Daniel Trugman on May 27, 2013 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: LOCK THE GATE. Private property with access easement held by Access Fund allowing climbing. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This neglected route is quite controversial on quality some say it is one of the better 5.12- routes at the crag, others say you would have to pay them to climb it. Chimney and stem up the corner to an obvious roof at the third bolt. Turn this roof on its left side using a couple of neat underclings, and snatch the jugs by the fourth bolt, or choose to grab a non-obvious drilled pocket on the face.. Campus/traverse up and right on good holds but poor feet to a nice rest at the fifth bolt. At this point, you're through the crux, but a long, pumpy sequence of underclings separates you from the anchor. Definitely not over until you clip the chains!

Location Suggest change

In the grove of trees in the middle of the crag, just left of the hanging sled.

Protection Suggest change

8 fixed draws to anchors. A stick clip is recommended, as the first bolt is quite high and the climbing may feel insecure at first, depending on you proficiency at trad climbing.

Reclip a few of the top draws on the way down so you aren't skewered by the tree when lowered.

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