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Routes in l. Jailhouse Rock

Alcatraz S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Burrito Supreme S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cell Block S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chain Gang S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Common Thug S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Conjugal Visit S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cuckoo's Nest S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Death Sentence S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Early Release S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Electric Chair S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Felon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fugitive S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Haul of Justice S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Insecurity S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Iron Junkie S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jailbait S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Juice, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Le Mens Sauce S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Life Sentence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Line Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lobotomy (aka McDevitt Route) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Minimum Security75 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Misdemeanor S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pulp Friction S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rhumb Line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slammer S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Soap on a Rope S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Straight Jacket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strange Ways S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Supreme Being S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Violated S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Whipping Boy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 416 total · 7/month
Shared By: Daniel Trugman on May 27, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Private property with public access easement allowing climbing held by the Access Fund. Details

Description [Edit]

This neglected routes is actually one of the better 5.12- routes at the crag. Chimney and stem up the corner to an obvious roof at the third bolt. Turn this roof on its left side using a couple of neat underclings, and snatch the jugs by the fourth bolt. Campus/traverse up and right on good holds but poor feet to a nice rest at the fifth bolt. At this point, you're through the crux, but a long, pumpy sequence of underclings separates you from the anchor. Definitely not over until you clip the chains!

Location [Edit]

In the grove of trees in the middle of the crag, just left of the hanging sled.

Protection [Edit]

8 fixed draws to anchors. A stick clip is recommended, as the first bolt is quite high and the climbing may feel insecure at first, depending on you proficiency at trad climbing.

Reclip a few of the top draws on the way down so you aren't skewered by the tree when lowered.

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