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Routes in Jailhouse Rock

Burrito Supreme S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cell Block S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chain Gang S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Common Thug S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Conjugal Visit S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cuckoo's Nest S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Early Release S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Electric Chair S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Felon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fugitive S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Insecurity S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Iron Junkie S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jailbait S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Le Mens Sauce S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Line Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lobotomy (aka McDevitt Route) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Minimum Security75 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pulp Friction S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rhumb Line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slammer S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Soap on a Rope S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Straight Jacket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strange Ways S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Supreme Being S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Violated S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Whipping Boy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Alex Honnold after the jug broke. Before that is anyone's guess.
Page Views: 2,536 total, 42/month
Shared By: Rob Eison on Dec 3, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Private property with a public access easement and conservation easement allowing climbing held by the Access Fund. Critical to see current requirements and restrictions. Details

Description

This storied route was my nemesis and a labor of love, bringing me back to Jailhouse intermittently for 3 seasons after I moved to Denver in 2009. Originally a decent but not-sought-after 5.13b from the early Jailhouse days until a vital glue-reinforced fin broke off in the early 2000's, Slammer transformed into a notoriously elusive 5.13+ and repelled many a jailhouse hardman for years. Finally, I believe in 2007, during Alex Honnold's blitzkrieg at the House, he unlocked the new crux and called it one of the hardest 5.13's he'd sent. Bay area crusher and erudite psychologist Ethan Schwartz repeated it the next year after months of attempts rating it 5.13d. I'm convinced now after the many belays we shared that Ethan's jedi-mind tricks were responsible for the obsession that consumed me the entire next season even to the point that I considered delaying our family's move back to Denver just so I could have one more season to send Slammer. In the end I needed 2 full years of Front Range power before I finally had the tools to put this one away.

In all honesty, Slammer would easily be a 4star route and my objective favorite at Jailhouse were it not for the ledge at 25 feet just after you leave Common Thug. The climbing that follows is truly brilliant and much more cerebral than the usual burly thuggery one encounters here at this grade. There is only one obligatory knee bar at the eighth bolt which allows for vital recovery and reconnaissance before the treacherous crux--a V9 past-vertical face boulder problem on devious side pulls, a bottle-cap crimp, and sloping pinches capped by a powerful reach from a miserable undercling sloper. Another 15 feet of hero moves on steeper blocky terrain takes you to the fixed chain anchors where you can finally clip and get on with your life.

Location

Shares the same start as Common Thug but at the fourth bolt continue straight up and right to the ledge instead of traversing left.

Protection

11-12 fixed rope draws with a few you can skip.
The climb will never be within my reach, but I love the write-up! Mar 18, 2014