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Routes in Jailhouse Rock

Burrito Supreme S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cell Block S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chain Gang S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Common Thug S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Conjugal Visit S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cuckoo's Nest S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Early Release S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Electric Chair S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Felon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fugitive S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Insecurity S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Iron Junkie S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jailbait S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Le Mens Sauce S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Line Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lobotomy (aka McDevitt Route) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Minimum Security75 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pulp Friction S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rhumb Line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slammer S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Soap on a Rope S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Straight Jacket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strange Ways S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Supreme Being S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Violated S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Whipping Boy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: 5.12d
Page Views: 109 total, 2/month
Shared By: Daniel Trugman on May 5, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Private property with a public access easement and conservation easement allowing climbing held by the Access Fund. Critical to see current requirements and restrictions. Details

Description

Neat route, especially if you are into thin face-climbing. One of easier 5.12+'s at the Jailhouse.

Begin with a few crack/undercling moves with poor feet, climbing up to a nice no-hands rest right of the third bolt. Traverse up and left on small holds, making a reachy or quite powerful 4th clip. Crank through a series of small crimps with the help of some technical footwork. Ooze over the bulge and catch another great rest, level with the seventh bolt. Fire through one more cool boulder problem (bigger moves, bigger holds this time), and slab your way to the anchors.

Location

First route immediately left of the warm-ups. RIght side of the Jailhouse.

Protection

8 bolts, the last seven of which are fixed draws. Bring your own quickdraw (and an attentive belayer) for the first clip, or stick clip the second.

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