Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Tom Herbert, 90s
Page Views: 373 total · 19/month
Shared By: Vlad S on Oct 15, 2020
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: LOCK THE GATE. Private property with access easement held by Access Fund allowing climbing. Details

Description

One of the least popular 5.13 routes at the crag. Fun juggy and very steep climbing with a few knees and 2 hard cruxes thrown in. Main detraction is you have to start on a tree (shares start with Lock Off), so belaying this one is not very comfortable. I was told to rodeo clip from a double knee bar before the redpoint crux, but found it better to real in the draw with a stiffy.

Taller climbers can reach the first bolt from the tree. Start on a very high jug right of the 1st bolt and do a pull up. Climbing up and left past the 3rd bolt (still in the vertical section) is a very reachy and difficult crux after which point Texas Seven merges in as an alternative start. Keep monkeying right (Enemy Combatant goes up) though the roof jugs to a double knee rest. Hard left hand throw to a sloping shelf will prove to be the heartbreaker crux at the end of the roof section. Easy finish gets a little damp from seepage.

9 bolts - all fixed with draws. Stays dry when a lot of the routes are wet. However, watch out for all the bird poop and poison oak at the base!

Location

Middle of the steep cave, toward the left side of the crag

Protection

9 bolts

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