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Routes in Jailhouse Rock
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[Redacted] S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Alcatraz S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Anemia S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Arsonist S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c |
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Assassin S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Big House S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Big House Right ext S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Birdman S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Blacklisted S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Burning Down the House S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Burrito Supreme S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Capitol Punishment S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Cell Block S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Chain Gang S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cheddar Bunnies S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Common Thug S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Community Service S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Conjugal Visit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Criminal Justice Reform S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Criming S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Cuckoo's Nest S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Cuddle Bunnies S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Dead Man Walking S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Death Row S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Death Sentence S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Early Release S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Electric Chair S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Enemy Combatant S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Escape from Alcatraz S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Felon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Flight Risk S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Flower Power S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Forced Entry S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Fried Chicken S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Fryerplace S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Fugitive S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Full House S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Governor, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Grab Your Toes, Boy! S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Green Mile S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Guilty Until Proven Innocent S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Hang Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Hang Time S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Hard Time S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Hardened Criminal S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Haul of Justice S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Insecurity S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Iron Junkie S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Iron Throne S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Jailbait S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Juice, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Kingpin S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Knee to Knee S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Knee to Mile S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Knee to Tower S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Lemmens Sauce S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Lethal Injection S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Life Sentence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Line Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Lobotomy (aka McDevitt Route) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lock Down S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Lock-Off S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Lolita S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Mark, The S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Minimum Burrito S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Minimum Security S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Misdemeanor S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Mistaken Identity S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Most Wanted (AKA Full Fugitive) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Mother Lode S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Overhaul S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Pardon S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Petty Offense S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Pick Pocket S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Public Burning S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Public Mayhem S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Pulp Friction S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rhumb Line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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San Quentin S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Scared Straight S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Shackled S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Shield, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Skid Row S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Skitz Row S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Slammer S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Smooth Criminal S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Soap on a Rope S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Solitary Confinement S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Statute of Limitations S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Straight Jacket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Strange Ways S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Stranger Ways S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Supreme Being S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Texas Illegal Activity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Texas Seven S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Three Strikes And You're Out S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Toe to Toe S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tommy Lee S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Tossed Salad S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Tower of Power S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Treason S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Uhaul S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Underage Linking S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c |
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Unforgiven S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Violated S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Wabi Sabi S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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War Machine A.K.A. Yoga High S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Warden, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Whipping Boy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Tom Herbert, 90s |
| Page Views: | 660 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Vlad S on Oct 15, 2020 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: LOCK THE GATE. Private property with access easement held by Access Fund allowing climbing.
Details
LOCK THE GATE! Jailhouse has been and remains privately owned. The owner has graciously allowed an access easement and conservation easement to let climbers get to and climb at the cliff. Current access is now via the new double gate and gravel road. In the future, a new route may be necessary due to future subdivisions.
For the current gate code and rules, visit accessfund.org/capabilities…
Some critical conditions of the easement we need to comply with include:
In addition, seasonal raptor closures on a portion of cliff line may be posted on the property and online if there is active raptor nesting.
Our ability to climb here is contingent on our compliance with the conditions of the easement.
For the current gate code and rules, visit accessfund.org/capabilities…
Some critical conditions of the easement we need to comply with include:
- No dogs on the property
- Close all gates (typically there are over 200 head of horses on the property), particularly the gate to O'Byrnes Ferry Road
- No loud music
- No fires
- No camping at the cliff, trailhead, or anywhere in the vicinity
- Access allowed only from sun-up to one hour after sundown
- No littering
In addition, seasonal raptor closures on a portion of cliff line may be posted on the property and online if there is active raptor nesting.
Our ability to climb here is contingent on our compliance with the conditions of the easement.
Description
One of the least popular 5.13 routes at the crag. Fun juggy and very steep climbing with a few knees and 2 hard cruxes thrown in. Main detraction is you have to start on a tree (shares start with Lock Off), so belaying this one is not very comfortable. I was told to rodeo clip from a double knee bar before the redpoint crux, but found it better to real in the draw with a stiffy.
Taller climbers can reach the first bolt from the tree. Start on a very high jug right of the 1st bolt and do a pull up. Climbing up and left past the 3rd bolt (still in the vertical section) is a very reachy and difficult crux after which point Texas Seven merges in as an alternative start. Keep monkeying right (Enemy Combatant goes up) though the roof jugs to a double knee rest. Hard left hand throw to a sloping shelf will prove to be the heartbreaker crux at the end of the roof section. Easy finish gets a little damp from seepage.
9 bolts - all fixed with draws. Stays dry when a lot of the routes are wet. However, watch out for all the bird poop and poison oak at the base!
Photos
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