Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Jailhouse Rock

Alcatraz S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Burrito Supreme S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cell Block S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chain Gang S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Common Thug S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Conjugal Visit S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cuckoo's Nest S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Death Sentence S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Early Release S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Electric Chair S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Felon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fugitive S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Haul of Justice S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Insecurity S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Iron Junkie S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jailbait S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Juice, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Le Mens Sauce S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Life Sentence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Line Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lobotomy (aka McDevitt Route) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Minimum Security75 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Misdemeanor S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pulp Friction S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rhumb Line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slammer S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Soap on a Rope S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Straight Jacket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strange Ways S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Supreme Being S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Violated S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Whipping Boy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Dan McDevitt
Page Views: 2,002 total · 25/month
Shared By: Colin Simon on Jun 18, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


14 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Private property with a public access easement and conservation easement allowing climbing held by the Access Fund. Critical to see current requirements and restrictions. Details

Description

Probably the easiest and least steep route at Jailhouse! That being said, it still overhangs a tad.

Climb the collection of blocks through fixed draws to an anchor. Rests are relatively easy to find.

Location

Third route from the far right of the wall.

Protection

Fixed draws, bottom to top.

Photos

- No Photos -
Vlad S
 
Vlad S  
 
I guess I meant the 3rd bolt, since I never clip the 1st. That one only protects you for 1 move from the ground, so I didn't count it for some reason. Sorry for the confusion. By bolt 4-5 you are past the hardest move, but it's still a bit sustained right before you get a no-hands rest. The rest is a jughaul and if you have a reasonably good idea of what to do it's impossible to fall off. Oct 31, 2016
John RB
Superior, CO
  5.11d
John RB   Superior, CO
  5.11d
When I climbed this route a lot in the late 90s this was just called "the warmup" (a few people called it "McDevitt" after Dan and Sue McDevitt, the couple from the valley who presumably put the route up.

The 2nd bolt was definitely not the crux... there is a series of powerful left-to-right moves around the 4th-5th bolt that I felt was the crux. I would often hang there rather than flash pump trying to get the redpoint since this was usually the warm-up.

I miss that place. Glad to hear access is not a problem. Oct 29, 2016
Caliza
  5.11c
Caliza  
  5.11c
The second bolt is a little technical but I would not consider that the crux. The first two bolts after the ledge midway is definitely more viable of a candidate to be the crux. The angle of the route is a little steeper with technical and big moves after already having climbed 40 feet. I agree Gold Wall is a soft crag, but at the same time Jailhouse is on the sandbagged end. Most crags I've been to fall between the two as far as grades go. Apr 16, 2016
Julian Bobilev
  5.11d
Julian Bobilev  
  5.11d
The 2nd bolt is about .10a, are we talking about the same route? There is a crux sequence with lots of sidepull bumping between bolts 3 and 4 but since you're well rested at that point it doesn't pose much of a challenge. The redpoint crux to me is definitely linking all the moves at the last three or so bolts, since it's pretty sustained and you're tired from the rest of the route. Apr 15, 2016
Vlad S
 
Vlad S  
 
People call a lot of the routes 5.12 at goldwall that are not. Don't use goldwall as the measuring stick, since it's an extreme outlier on the grading scale, being one of the softest crags on the entire continent. By the way, a large jug came off around 1/2 way mark in the winter of 2014/2015, making that section more awkward and the whole route a bit less appealing. It didn't affect the difficulty, since the crux is still at the 2nd bolt. Apr 11, 2016
Julian Bobilev
  5.11d
Julian Bobilev  
  5.11d
People would call this 12a at Gold Wall. The crux sequence flows well with really fun footwork. Apr 11, 2016
Caliza
  5.11c
Caliza  
  5.11c
This one is called Lobotomy or McDevit Route. Mar 7, 2016