Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Todd Graham
Page Views: 1,968 total · 28/month
Shared By: Luke Stefurak on Jan 30, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Private property with public access easement allowing climbing held by the Access Fund. Details

Description

Start off with easy moves up a pillar to a short horizontal roof. Pull over the roof and move right with some difficulty due to lack of feet. Sequential moves lead to the fourth bolt where you must traverse right. These bad holds are the crux and lead to V slot, jug and a possible knee bar. One more clip and a series of amazing jugs leads to the anchor.

Location

This is the farthest left route on the upper left side of the Jailhouse.

Protection

5 bolts (with fixed draws) to an anchor with fixed biners.

Photos

Caliza Rodriguez
  5.12a
Caliza Rodriguez  
  5.12a
Sick bouldery line. The description above says it's 60 feet, but it's 40 feet at most. Not that tall. Dec 23, 2015
Todd Graham
Sierra Eastside, CA
Todd Graham   Sierra Eastside, CA
I put up Chain Gang. Dec 31, 2015
Caliza Rodriguez
  5.12a
Caliza Rodriguez  
  5.12a
Fun line, with the right beta this does not feel awkward, fun actually. Regarding the height, the lead wall at my gym, Berkeley Ironworks, is 45 feet and Chain Gang is no way taller than the lead wall there, great route nonetheless. Mar 7, 2016
Latvian climber
  5.12a/b
Latvian climber  
  5.12a/b
This thing is hard for the grade! It's the first route to get into the sun, the bottom of it starts getting sunny around 11am in the dead of winter and noontime in the spring. The clipping is just as strenuous as the climbing. Mar 13, 2016
Mike Arechiga
Oakhurst
Mike Arechiga   Oakhurst
I like Chain Gang for my warm up route better then The Warm Up Route because, their is no line to climb it, and it's one of the first climbs in the sun, and it's a bit thuggy and bouldery and with couple knee bars in the right places makes this route cup cake for me :-)Justen Sjong still owes me a happy meal with an action figure for sending this route back in the day lol :-) Jan 16, 2017