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Routes in 12 - Wildcat Falls & Above the Cookie

Separate Reality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tales of Power T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Through Bein' Cool T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Ron Kauk - 1978
Page Views: 54,372 total, 400/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Oct 16, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Separate Reality is the photogenic, quintessential Yosemite roof climb. It's short, aesthetic, athletic, and buckets o' fun.

Take Hwy 120 out of the Valley and after going through two short tunnels, park at a paved pullout immediately before the third, long tunnel. Hike up the road to the mouth of this tunnel, jump over the stone wall, and follow a steep track down the cliff for 3 minutes. This deposits you at the top of the Separate Reality visor. Just before walking onto the slab, locate a good pine tree to fix a line to and do a short (40') rap down to a staging area at the base of the climb.

It's pretty obvious: Climb the steep lieback flake to a stance, then bust out the 20' roof to a wild series of moves at the lip.

Protection

If you want to lead this on gear, I recommend a #3 Camalot for the belayer, a #1 and a #4 Camalot for the initial lieback section, and then a #3, a pair of #2s, a #1, and a 0.75 for the crack itself. However, a much easier option is to bring four or five hexes and long slings: One can easily pre-load the crack by dropping the hexes down in from above. One person should rap in first to direct this procedure.
Jordan Cannon
Bishop, CA
  5.12a
Jordan Cannon   Bishop, CA
  5.12a
Amazing route! The location and positioning is unreal, get on it! I thought it was easier than "More Monkey Than Funky" 11c in J-Tree, even though it's longer and more sustained. For the roof I brought a #3, two #2's, and a .75 and was fine, just don't forget to bring the jumars so you can clean your gear if your partner isn't going to follow! Apr 3, 2016
Josh Janes    
 
I'm sorry you found my suggestion silly but I think you missed the point. Oct 16, 2015
MisterCattell Cattell
South Lake Tahoe, Ca
  5.12a
MisterCattell Cattell   South Lake Tahoe, Ca
  5.12a
I wish there were a way to describe how absolutely perfect this route is. But I can't. Just go try it yourself. Also- Don't TR it. That's just silly.

Also also- Trying to drop hexes in from the top seems just as silly as TRing. Cams work just fine. Oct 16, 2015
Mickey Sensenbach
San luis obispo CA
Mickey Sensenbach   San luis obispo CA
again just trying to see how hard it is, is it like the backer cracker in the first hand jam, just more steep? do you not need any thing bigger then a number 4 camolot? is it C1 so I can down aid if I have pro under roof and cant pull it? Sep 16, 2013
Tev
Hickory
Tev   Hickory
According to the Ray Jardine website, he did the First Ascent on March 12th 1977 with pro and free ascended it on March 23rd of the same year. Jun 13, 2012
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Its harder than the roof pitches of either of those climbs. Sep 23, 2009
Trying to get a feel for how hard this is, how does it compare to say the Organasm or Castles in the Sand in Sedona? Thanks. Sep 22, 2009
One of the better videos of a pinkpoint of the route. Mar 22, 2009
m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
yeah, feet first is pretty clutch. you'd have to be super human to do it any other way Jul 30, 2007