Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches
FA: John Tuttle, Drew Davol, Vince Depasque 1986
Page Views: 99,363 total · 435/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The "Serenity-Sons" combo may be the best 5.10 crack climb in the Valley... it is just so, so good. Why anyone would do one without the other, I don't know, but since they are technically two separate routes, they are listed as such.

Sons of Yesterday is the flawless continuation of the climb.

P4: From the top of Serenity Crack climb up the shallow corner until it's possible to climb a short 5.5 section up and left to gain a ledge system. Head further left (4th+ Class) and up a ramp to a belay with bolts at the base of the main crack system.

P5: A long pitch of continuous 5.10a. First a thin crack to a small tree, then flared thin hands to a ledge. Continue up using stems and then a layback of the crack to gain airy face holds out left. Easy climbing to a belay from a small tree.

P6: 5.9- jamming up a corner through a little roof. Belay at bolts to the right of the main crack.

P7: "Shackles of Youth" the money hero hands pitch. Belay from bolts at the base of a diagonal crack.

P8: Either "walk the plank" (5.9) or use thin hands (5.10A) to the base of an easy wide crack (5.8). You can rap the route or if crowded below continue up the slab (bolts) to a ledge that connects SoY to the Awahnee Buttress original route. The rap route starts there and can be done with a single 70m. Be careful as a couple of the rappels are very tight.

Two Rappel options: 

Rappel to climber's right of the route - 13 rappels total, only a 60m is required. You must finish the slab, pitch 8, and you must rappel to the anchor under the tree farther to the right (do not go to the anchor you can see from pitch 6 and 7). Link to rappel route here.

Rappel the route - 70 meter rope required.   Descend along three fixed belays without challenge.  The forth rap does NOT reach the fixed anchor at the start of the route. Rather the rap ends at a tree which may be backed up with a couple of medium cams.  The ropes are about 12 feet/4 meters short of the first bolted anchor on Sons of Yesterday.  Rap from the tree to the half-dead tree and the to the main ledge above Serenity.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack. Include a wide hands piece.

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