Type: Trad, 600 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Tuttle, Davol, & Depasque - 1986
Page Views: 84,475 total · 507/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006 with improvements by nathanael and 1 other
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

The "Serenity-Sons" combo may be the best 5.10 crack climb in the Valley... it is just so, so good. Why anyone would do one without the other, I don't know, but since they are technically two separate routes, they are listed as such.

Sons of Yesterday is the flawless continuation of the climb.

P4: Depending on where you belayed, climb a long pitch of easy terrain past a short steep section of 5.10a thin hands to an airy belay perch on a small tree.

P5: A long pitch of 5.9 in a right-facing corner. Belay at bolts.

P6: Steep 5.9 jamming through a little roof. Belay at bolts.

P7: A wild pitch of 5.9 "walking" along a leaning crack leads to a final stretch of 5.8 fists to an anchor. A sweet pitch.

P8: Follow two bolts on the slab over two bulges to a bolted anchor and the start of the rappels.

Two Rappel options: 
Rappel to climber's right of the route - 13 rappels total, only a 60m is required. You must finish the slab, pitch 8, and you must rappel to the anchor under the tree farther to the right (do not go to the anchor you can see from pitch 6 and 7). Link to rappel route here.

Rappel the route - 70 meter rope required.   Descend along three fixed belays without challenge.  The forth rap does NOT reach the fixed anchor at the start of the route. Rather the rap ends at a tree which may be backed up with a couple of medium cams.  The ropes are about 12 feet/4 meters short of the first bolted anchor on Sons of Yesterday.  Rap from the tree to the half-dead tree and the to the main ledge above Serenity.

Protection

Standard rack. Include a wide hands piece.

Photos