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Sons of Yesterday
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.9 from 754
votes
Routes in Western Royal Arches
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Adrenaline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Demimonde S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Devil Waves S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Deviltry T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Endorphin T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Firefingers T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Maxine's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Permanent Waves T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Peruvian Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Peruvian flake right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Queue Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Rupto Pac T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Serenity Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Sons of Yesterday T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Super Slide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tenaya's Tears T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Trial By Fire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | Tuttle, Davol, & Depasque - 1986 |
| Page Views: | 96,666 total · 485/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ for the latest information on visiting Yosemite.
Ongoing Issues:
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Ongoing Issues:
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The "Serenity-Sons" combo may be the best 5.10 crack climb in the Valley... it is just so, so good. Why anyone would do one without the other, I don't know, but since they are technically two separate routes, they are listed as such.
Sons of Yesterday is the flawless continuation of the climb.
P4: Depending on where you belayed, climb a long pitch of easy terrain past a short steep section of 5.10a thin hands to an airy belay perch on a small tree.
P5: A long pitch of 5.9 in a right-facing corner. Belay at bolts.
P6: Steep 5.9 jamming through a little roof. Belay at bolts.
P7: A wild pitch of 5.9 "walking" along a leaning crack leads to a final stretch of 5.8 fists to an anchor. A sweet pitch.
P8: Follow two bolts on the slab over two bulges to a bolted anchor and the start of the rappels.
Two Rappel options:
Rappel to climber's right of the route - 13 rappels total, only a 60m is required. You must finish the slab, pitch 8, and you must rappel to the anchor under the tree farther to the right (do not go to the anchor you can see from pitch 6 and 7). Link to rappel route here.
Rappel the route - 70 meter rope required. Descend along three fixed belays without challenge. The forth rap does NOT reach the fixed anchor at the start of the route. Rather the rap ends at a tree which may be backed up with a couple of medium cams. The ropes are about 12 feet/4 meters short of the first bolted anchor on Sons of Yesterday. Rap from the tree to the half-dead tree and the to the main ledge above Serenity.
Sons of Yesterday is the flawless continuation of the climb.
P4: Depending on where you belayed, climb a long pitch of easy terrain past a short steep section of 5.10a thin hands to an airy belay perch on a small tree.
P5: A long pitch of 5.9 in a right-facing corner. Belay at bolts.
P6: Steep 5.9 jamming through a little roof. Belay at bolts.
P7: A wild pitch of 5.9 "walking" along a leaning crack leads to a final stretch of 5.8 fists to an anchor. A sweet pitch.
P8: Follow two bolts on the slab over two bulges to a bolted anchor and the start of the rappels.
Two Rappel options:
Rappel to climber's right of the route - 13 rappels total, only a 60m is required. You must finish the slab, pitch 8, and you must rappel to the anchor under the tree farther to the right (do not go to the anchor you can see from pitch 6 and 7). Link to rappel route here.
Rappel the route - 70 meter rope required. Descend along three fixed belays without challenge. The forth rap does NOT reach the fixed anchor at the start of the route. Rather the rap ends at a tree which may be backed up with a couple of medium cams. The ropes are about 12 feet/4 meters short of the first bolted anchor on Sons of Yesterday. Rap from the tree to the half-dead tree and the to the main ledge above Serenity.
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