Mountain Project Logo

Areas in Shuteye Ridge

50 5.7's Dome 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Big Sleep 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Cat Nap Dome 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Chilkoot Lake 13 / 9 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
Chiquito Dome 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Crocodile Dome 3 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Dreamscape 6 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Eagles Nest 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Electric Eagle 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Fallen Eagle Dome 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Gray Eagle 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
High Eagle 5 / 25 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 29
Lost Eagle 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Midway Dome 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Milky Way Wall 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Moto Wall 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Queen's Throne 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Red Eagle 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Runnel Vision Wall 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Shangri La 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Sundial 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Voodoo Dome 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Description

Vast amount of granite domes scattered thoughout the Southern Yosemite area.

Getting There

From the city of Fresno, take state highway 41 to Oakhurst. Drive to Bass Lake to Beasore road 10 miles to 6s42 5.5 miles to 6s59 4 miles to the gate, past the gate need 4x4 to lookout 2 miles.From North Fork drive up Minarets road.

121 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Shuteye Ridge Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Shuteye Ridge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Afternoon Nap
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wing Feather
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonlight Madness
Sport 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
See You In Heaven
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
El Grande
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sweaty Betty
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
We Free Again Boys
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Too Old To Be Bold
Trad 5 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shangri La
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Climbing on the Brain
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cruising Black Stone
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Kala
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Va Va Voom
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gravity Pool
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kashmir
Sport
Afternoon Nap Big Sleep 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 5 pitches
Wing Feather Gray Eagle > Great Depression 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Moonlight Madness Big Sleep 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 5 pitches
See You In Heaven 50 5.7's Dome > Heaven Right Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport
El Grande Chiquito Dome 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Sweaty Betty High Eagle > Main Wall - Lower Left 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
We Free Again Boys High Eagle > Dark Side 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Too Old To Be Bold Chiquito Dome 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 5 pitches
Shangri La Shangri La 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Climbing on the Brain 50 5.7's Dome > Black Streaks Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Cruising Black Stone 50 5.7's Dome > Black Streaks Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Little Kala High Eagle > Main Wall - Lower Left 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Va Va Voom High Eagle > Main Wall 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Gravity Pool High Eagle > Shape Shifter Area 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Kashmir Shangri La 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Shuteye Ridge »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
Empty
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Ben Lim  
Could anyone help a brotha out? Like a dingus, I left a pair of sunglasses (Black Rayban Wayfarers) and a Blue watch (Ripcurl Digital) at the Chiquito Dome. You found em, please please please message me. I'll send ya some money to mail em back to me and a reward :) Oct 11, 2017
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
For sure, getting to the high eagle/shang ri la (blue) area is pretty rough right now. in an outback, we made it to within probably a mile of the 2wd camp. and probably should have parked well before that.. There were a group of boys in side-by-side's and some light equipment fixing (and roughing?) it up in a few spots.

The 7so2 road is in pretty good shape for most of it. with pretty good clearance (at least subaru), you can make it from beasore to the other side via 7so2 without going all the way around. Sep 8, 2017
Kyle Bishop
Nevada City, CA
Kyle Bishop   Nevada City, CA  
The fires haven't really affected the area at all, but last winter has turned many of the roads into 4wd only.

Drivers beware, getting to the "2wd" camp for Shangri La would be quite terrifying in an AWD Subaru and downright insane in anything with less clearance. We we there with a 31-inch wheel Tacoma and had to be really careful in more than one spot.

This place is quickly turning into 4wd/dirt bike only. Aug 22, 2017
The season has start here come on up and check it out. Jul 7, 2017
Aleah  
Hello friends...

Anyone have a current update regarding the current route and road conditions?

Thanks! Jul 5, 2017
There are updates on the forum

mountainproject.com/forum/t… Jun 21, 2017
Has anyone been up there this year? Just wondering whether the road is drivable yet ... Jun 21, 2017
Kash Dierksheide
Atascadero, California
Kash Dierksheide   Atascadero, California
vimeo.com/192375253 Nov 20, 2016
K-Tanz
Phoenix, AZ
K-Tanz   Phoenix, AZ
Be aware! The mileages in the guide book are often approximations which can lead to a very confusing find route. Additionally, we encountered signs the that did not read as stated in the guide book and some directions that are vague at best. I do not mean to minimize the efforts of the guide book author as I can only imagine recording beta for an area this large but rather to issue a friendly warning to prepare for confusing find routes, convoluted roads both public and private with multiple names, downed signs, and mileages that disagree with the guide. Come prepared with a full tank of gas and plenty of time.

The climbing is well worth it! Aug 18, 2016
Nice:-), Cat Nap Dome, awesome camp spot!!! Jul 29, 2016
Max Rausch
Monterey, California
Max Rausch   Monterey, California
Enjoying the evening at Cat Nap Dome last week :)
Jul 27, 2016
Hi climbers, I live in Oakhurst and have a vacation home in Oakhurst as well,if you are coming to the Shuteye area for the first time and need beta, on climbing area, camping, swimming holes. Look me up and I can show you the best places to have an amazing time here at Shuteye Ridge, I have wrote guide books to Shuteye as well as Fresno Dome been climbing and putting up routes in the area for over 25 years, so if your chopping at the bit to check out this climbing paradise and need a place to stay and beta, look me up and I can help you find the way Jun 29, 2016
All roads open, climbing season is here! May 7, 2016
Max Rausch
Monterey, California
Max Rausch   Monterey, California
In response to the above comment. The road in from Beasore road to trail 059 is open. Just spent the last several days up there. This place blows my mind at how fun it is. Camped at the base of the Cat Nap dome the first night. It's not listed on here, but there's a bunch of fun 11's. Got to hang out with the old fire marshall at the top in the look out tower. If your vehicle can make it, definitely head up there! Aug 8, 2015
Eric Walden
Oakhurst, ca
Eric Walden   Oakhurst, ca
Hand Jammies! Whoop! Jul 1, 2015
Kash Dierksheide
Atascadero, California
Kash Dierksheide   Atascadero, California
limpingcrab
Visalia, CA
limpingcrab   Visalia, CA
Yes. It's a Subaru, how dare you question her ability. Feb 18, 2015
nicolas blair
Denver, CO
nicolas blair   Denver, CO
I have a 2003 outback, can my car make it back there? Feb 18, 2015
Chris D
the couch
Chris D   the couch
Got the guidebook, read it pretty much cover to cover. Fantastic. Made a plan, then headed up to check out the area around Big Sleep. A couple of notes for folks like us who have never been to Shuteye and are headed up there with a freshly minted copy of the new Grahm Doe guide in their sweaty little hands:

1. The guidebook shows hundreds of spectacular climbs, beautifully photographed, on spectacular granite. What we saw confirmed that the granite is tremendous and in places, highly featured, and the slab is clean, solid, and very grippy. Keep in mind that the beautiful route on page 27 might be an hour's drive or more from the beautiful route on page 30. Plan to spend some time at every area you go to, since it's going to be more work to get there than you think.

2. The roads in the area are engineered to confuse. Ha! Most roads have three names, which are used interchangeably. The dirt roads are generally poorly signed, and a maze of unnamed roads and motorcycle trails will add to your confusion. For the most part, Google maps will only provide marginal assistance, since for some reason, the roads on Google are not labelled with the "7S02" sort of USFS names that are used in the forest and on quad maps. Go figure. Be sure you know where you're going before you head out. Having someone in your party who really knows how to read a map is a bonus.

3. The approaches are not necessarily trails. Well, there appear to be trails, but you better find them and stay on them if you're not planning to bushwhack. We found some that were well-cairned, and even some wide swaths of well-gardened trail, but the trails were easy to lose and very lightly used. If you're planning to bushwhack (be prepared to even if you're expecting a trail), have a good sense of direction and a map and compass or GPS and know how to use them. Unless you're out on open slab, don't expect to be able to see more than a couple of hundred feet in the forest. You could pretty easily get lost out here. Allow a lot of time to find your way to and from the climbs.

What a place! Beautiful quiet forests. Spectacular rock. Even where the rock is covered with lichen, it's super positive to climb on. This place is so spread out and hard to navigate (relative to more popular areas) that I'd say there's little risk of over-use. We spent a three day weekend sampling the slab and featured face climbing near Big Sleep, and the swimming holes that pepper the stream above Rock Creek campground.

It was wonderful. Jun 30, 2014
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
^^^ @ Chris D

I think that there are some places that are better left as "choose your own adventure" areas. Luckily there are a bunch of places like this left in the Sierra (Cal Dome, Hwy 108, Southern Sierra, Shuteye). For these areas I am in some sense glad that there is minimal info because it keeps the place a bit more wild (i.e. there are plenty of destinations to choose from that are info'ed into submission...The Leap, Tuolumne, the Ditch, etc). The guidebook is nice, but I would submit that part of what makes Shuteye special is exploring, which I might add, you really had to do prior to the book being published. That said, the book is wonderful and I would recommend picking it up.

I would suggest that you just grab a copy of the book and go have a look for yourself!! Mar 14, 2014
Chris D
the couch
Chris D   the couch
The guidebook has "over 800 routes" in this area. On Mountain Project (as of today)... Seven.

What gives?

Some nice pictures, but some solid "beyond the guidebook" beta from locals would be great. Mar 14, 2014
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
wolverinepublishing.com/shu…

A new guidebook is now available for Shuteye Ridge. Written by Grahm Doe and published by Wolverine.

This is a very pretty guidebook with 400+ pages in Full color.


Aug 26, 2013

More About Shuteye Ridge

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New
Guidebooks (1)
Fixed Hardware Report (3)

All Photos Within Shuteye Ridge (288)

Most Popular · Newest