Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Brant Didden, Peter Cassam, 8/1993
Page Views: 2,838 total · 55/month
Shared By: Aaron Liebling on Sep 15, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

23 Opinions

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An excellent steep moderate. The climbing is straightforward, though route finding can be less clear after the obvious crack on the first pitch.

Pro is generally good, assuming one is comfortable with slung knobs as pro on easy climbing.

P1 - 5.8 - 60m - Follow the obvious cracks up the buttress. when they run out, knobs lead up and left to a comfortable alcove with chain anchors.

P2 - 5.8 - 60m - Lead out directly left and proceed up on endless knobs. There are a few cracks available and eventually a bolt will be encountered. Go left from the bolt over a steep bulge and then follow a right facing corner/crack up to a chain anchor on a decent ledge.

P3 - 5.8 - 60m - A bouldery start out right to a high bolt. Tending right along knobs, head towards a short crack (NOT left along the large blocks). Climb more knobs past a bolt and up another right facing crack and belay on gear where convenient (a number of decent stances are available).

P4 - 5.6 - 20m - Climb easy slab to the right and either continue up to the summit (easy slab, but poor/no pro and face can be mossy/slick) or find an easy 10' downclimb on to a ledge on the right face and proceed up to a belay on boulders. If on the summit, perform a very short (~15') rap to the boulders.

From the boulders, proceed up easy 3rd class to the true summit.


Rap possible with a 70m or two shorter ropes. From the summit, head climber's left to a rap anchor. Rap to the large overgrown ledge and head across it to another set of chains. Four more raps (all bolts/chains except for one slung tree) lead back to the ground through the middle of the Great Depression.


This route splits the buttress on the right side of the Great Depression.


Doubles to 3", slung knobs


Cory Brooks
Fresno, CA
Cory Brooks   Fresno, CA
Amazing climb, one of the best of its grade that I have ever done. Go and climb it! 2nd pitch was nebulous, stay right after the initial chicken heads, past the bolt and up the steep bulge. Cruiser crack to a ledge after that.
Bring LOTS of slings, I had 12 and wished I had a couple more

You can also walk off. A bit of a bush-bash but only took us about 20 minutes Oct 6, 2015
Gray is full of amazing climbs! Oct 6, 2015
Dusty Cams  
Fantastic Climb, a few notes:

First pitch is a full 60m, having a double set here was helpful if you are not comfortable with very long runouts

Second pitch is not a full 60m, more like 45-50. Regarding the "go left from bolt/steep bulge/right facing corner/crack" in the route description and guide book, don't go too far left, (as there is a steep bulge /right facing corner/crack) or you will be in 9+ territory up to the belay (as my partner did)--if you find your self climbing over the left edge/roof of the buttress, you've gone to far left of the bolt.

Third pitch: the moves below the 2nd bolt are a bit tricky, then easy after the bolt--seemed like strange bolt placement, but glad it was there either way. Sep 26, 2016
Rude Boy
San Francisco, CA
Rude Boy   San Francisco, CA
Yeah, what Dusty Cams said. On pitch 2 step left off the belay and then go straight up. The bolt is 35m up and then after it you barely trend left if you want to sink a cam in before pulling the bulge. The guide book made it sound as if you want to keep trending left. Do not do that. May 30, 2017
Ney Grant
Pollock Pines, CA
Ney Grant   Pollock Pines, CA
Great, great, classic climb.

Even after some helpful comments, still had trouble on P2. Here are the main takeaways:
The bolt on P2 is high up, 30M.
The bolt is at the base of the steep bulge (fantastic to climb, BTW), but not on the left side. Stay right of the blank section while moving up to the bulge, and you'll find the bolt. I climb up left, finally saw the bolt way to the right, downclimbed, traversed and moved up to it.

It felt like a few 5.9 moves were on the climb. The "bouldery" start of P3, especially if you are short, felt tough but maybe you can move down and around. Not a serious fall there anyway as you are right next to the belay.

As mentioned above the moves below the second bolt on P3 seemed harder than 5.8, which is a little strange because the bolt above is in easier terrain.

Overall, fantastic. Sep 5, 2017
Steve Blevins
Central Coast, CA
Steve Blevins   Central Coast, CA
Fabulous climb. I found the 5.6 last pitch equal in excitement and challenge to the other pitches.

There is a trick to doing the bouldery move to the bolt on P3. It goes at 5.8 for shorter climbers if you can figure the tick out or if you are really tall.

For us rapping off was equal in challenge to the climb. Thank goodness for the cairns marking the way to the 1st rap from the true summit. I would describe the landing as a 'gully with some brush'. As you walk climber's left looking for the next anchor, DON'T use the 2 bolts with hangers only. You will never pull you rope. Work farther left and down to find chained station.

Make sure you look way left for anchors on the next to last rap.

I wish I would have read about hiking off, it looks like you could. Oct 9, 2017
Andrew Fahrland
Denver, CO
Andrew Fahrland   Denver, CO
This route is awesome. Pitch 1 is probably the best pitch I've done at Shuteye; fight your partner for it. Watch your rope path on pitch two, as both times I've done this route the rope ran behind various knobs and gave me terrible rope drag. After the bolt on P2, head straight up on huge jugs over the bulge directly to the anchor. Cracks to the left look tempting, but the better finish is to just go straight up; there is gear throughout the bulge even though it doesn't look like it from below. Rapping the Great Depression with one 70m rope deposits you just uphill from the base, though I'll probably just walk off next time. Oct 20, 2017
Just climbed this 2 days ago, great moderate route in such a beautiful setting! We went off route on P2, trending left made us somehow missed the bolt entirely. My partner was a bit nervous and unhappy until he realized the 2nd belay anchor he made was less than 5 feet away from the bolted anchor ;-)

We did the walk off, the ally was completely overgrown, so instead of walking, it's more like holding onto bushes and sliding off. Sep 4, 2018