Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bob Harrington 1984
Page Views: 3,926 total · 56/month
Shared By: Aaron Liebling on Sep 15, 2014 with improvements by Sean Sullivan
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

An excellent steep moderate. The climbing is straightforward, though route finding can be less clear after the obvious crack on the first pitch.

Pro is generally good, assuming one is comfortable with slung knobs as pro on easy climbing.

P1 - 5.8 - 60m - Follow the obvious cracks up the buttress. when they run out, knobs lead up and left to a comfortable alcove with chain anchors.

P2 - 5.8 - 60m - Lead out directly left and proceed up on endless knobs. There are a few cracks available and eventually a bolt will be encountered. Go left from the bolt over a steep bulge and then follow a right facing corner/crack up to a chain anchor on a decent ledge.

P3 - 5.8 - 60m - A bouldery start out right to a high bolt. Tending right along knobs, head towards a short crack (NOT left along the large blocks). Climb more knobs past a bolt and up another right facing crack and belay on gear where convenient (a number of decent stances are available).

P4 - 5.6 - 20m - Climb easy slab to the right and either continue up to the summit (easy slab, but poor/no pro and face can be mossy/slick) or find an easy 10' downclimb on to a ledge on the right face and proceed up to a belay on boulders. If on the summit, perform a very short (~15') rap to the boulders.

From the boulders, proceed up easy 3rd class to the true summit.

Descent

Rap possible with a 70m or two shorter ropes. From the summit, head climber's left to a rap anchor. Rap to the large overgrown ledge and head across it to another set of chains. Four more raps (all bolts/chains except for one slung tree) lead back to the ground through the middle of the Great Depression.

Location

This route splits the buttress on the right side of the Great Depression.

Protection

Doubles to 3", slung knobs

Photos