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Routes in Big Sleep

Afternoon Nap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Moonlight Madness S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Young Guns T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Sport, 900 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Grahm Doe and Leo Miner
Page Views: 5,882 total · 141/month
Shared By: Cory Brooks on Apr 17, 2015 with updates from Brice Pollock
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

From the approach, trail take a right and look for a split roof with a tree to the right of the split. From here, trace down towards a flake and then to the base. You should see a couple bolts for the route, a black streak to the left.

All pitches are 60m with bolted anchors. Have fun!

Protection

dozen quick draws, a few knob slings for the final pitch.
Sean P. Sullivan
Clovis, Ca
 
Sean P. Sullivan   Clovis, Ca
 
Another Shuteye classic! Leave the gear at the car, this thing only "needs" a couple placements, a small camalot would be enough. I placed a .5 on the first pitch, but i didnt need to. P2 has plenty of options for pro before the first bolt but the climbing eases up so much my partner pretty much walked past the seam and up to the bolt, placing nothing. I used the same .5 on p3 in the hole that the guidebook describes after the dike section. P4 is amazing!! The crux is actually below the roof, on delicate slab. Pull the roof and launch off onto the runnels and chickenheads! I slung 2 knobs before my bolt. The climbing was EASY but way fun. A must do if you hike up to the sleep. May 11, 2015
Max Hietpas
Oakland, CA
Max Hietpas   Oakland, CA
Hot hot hot! Did it last weekend (8/15). Fun climb! But make sure you start at the right spot - we started left of the actual route and ended up running the first pitch off one bolt!

Pitches 1-3 are great slab and 4-6 are the featured runnels and chickenheads. Wroth it for pitch 4 alone! Aug 19, 2015
Andrew Fahrland
Denver, CO
  5.9
Andrew Fahrland   Denver, CO
  5.9
A fun slab romp up Big Sleep. The start can be a bit hard to spot; look for a few left-facing flakes to a small leftward ramp to the high first bolt. You can get gear in before the first bolt. The roof crux is pretty short and you can plug a small cam above the roof before committing to the roof pull so that you have gear overhead. This route is generally well-protected especially compared to Afternoon Nap. We brought a single rack to 2" and used a bunch of gear to supplement the bolts. Oct 20, 2017
Rew Exo
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.9
Rew Exo   Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.9
I led every pitch on this route and loved every moment of it. The rock is incredible and it is bolted perfectly. The bolts are far apart, but right where you want them. I placed a 0.5 cam on the first pitch before the bolts and placed it again in the roof. The knobs are so good that you really don't need to sling any of them. There is a short section where the knobs disappear but a bolt protects that section. The summit views are incredible too. I wouldn't recommend the route to a leader scared of runouts, but if you are confident you'll have a great time. May 14, 2018

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