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Routes in Big Sleep

Afternoon Nap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Moonlight Madness S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Young Guns T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Tom Slater, Owen Slater, Wade Horton, Dillon Horton, 6/16/2012
Page Views: 686 total, 17/month
Shared By: Chris D on Jun 30, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A short romp up low-angle slab. This climb is a good intro to the rock at Big Sleep and a nice warm-up for the longer routes on this face.

Seems like the route could pretty easily continue up from the anchors to other pitches above.

Either rap with two 60m ropes, or rap down with a single rope to the ledge with a tiny pine and walk off left.

Location

Follow the approach info for Big Sleep. At the end of the trail (at the toe of the southwest face) head right until you are just below a tiny pine tree above you on a ledge. Follow the bolt line to a pair of chains.

Protection

4 bolts and one bolt with no hanger. The first four bolts have hangers, but the fifth bolt's hanger and nut are gone, which is unfortunate, since this is really the only bolt you might actually need.

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