[Hide Comment] Another Shuteye classic! Leave the gear at the car, this thing only "needs" a couple placements, a small camalot would be enough. I placed a .5 on the first pitch, but i didnt need to. P2 has plenty of options for pro before the first bolt but the climbing eases up so much my partner pretty much walked past the seam and up to the bolt, placing nothing. I used the same .5 on p3 in the hole that the guidebook describes after the dike section. P4 is amazing!! The crux is actually below the roof, on delicate slab. Pull the roof and launch off onto the runnels and chickenheads! I slung 2 knobs before my bolt. The climbing was EASY but way fun. A must do if you hike up to the sleep. May 11, 2015

[Hide Comment] Hot hot hot! Did it last weekend (8/15). Fun climb! But make sure you start at the right spot - we started left of the actual route and ended up running the first pitch off one bolt!

Pitches 1-3 are great slab and 4-6 are the featured runnels and chickenheads. Wroth it for pitch 4 alone! Aug 19, 2015

[Hide Comment] A fun slab romp up Big Sleep. The start can be a bit hard to spot; look for a few left-facing flakes to a small leftward ramp to the high first bolt. You can get gear in before the first bolt. The roof crux is pretty short and you can plug a small cam above the roof before committing to the roof pull so that you have gear overhead. This route is generally well-protected especially compared to Afternoon Nap. We brought a single rack to 2" and used a bunch of gear to supplement the bolts. Oct 20, 2017

[Hide Comment] I led every pitch on this route and loved every moment of it. The rock is incredible and it is bolted perfectly. The bolts are far apart, but right where you want them. I placed a 0.5 cam on the first pitch before the bolts and placed it again in the roof. The knobs are so good that you really don't need to sling any of them. There is a short section where the knobs disappear but a bolt protects that section. The summit views are incredible too. I wouldn't recommend the route to a leader scared of runouts, but if you are confident you'll have a great time. May 14, 2018

[Hide Comment] Absolute classic! First three pitches are fun slab romps on beautiful, smooth granite. Pitch 4 has the only 5.9 move on the climb, a fun roof which immediately rewards you with a sea of chickenhead jugs. Bring some small cams to protect the beginning of the route and the crux. Knob slings are nice for pitches 4-5 but honestly the climbing is so easy and solid, you could do without. All bolts are in good condition as of 10/12/2019 Oct 13, 2019

[Hide Comment] Sweet route! Bolts are super hard to spot from the base. We had a pic of the start and climbed up not seeing bolts at all and almost climbed past the first one. Guide book says first pitch has 11 bolts, I saw and clipped 8...lol. Also forgot the chalk in the truck. Follow the cairns on the approach, you cant get lost. Rapping down the knob pitches was a pain in the ass, would definitely walk off next time we climb big sleep. Overall a MUST do if you like slab on awesome granite! Nov 3, 2019

[Hide Comment] I only saw the first two bolts after I'd climbed above them. Right of the water streaks are two left-facing thin flakes. They both take pro. The left one leads to the first two bolts. The right one has good pro to the third bolt. After this, the route is easy to follow. Pitch 4 easily rappel able with a 35 mm. keep the rope in the water groove. May 22, 2020

[Hide Comment] Really fun climb. There is one move that is 5.9 (pulling roof of 4th pitch). The real crux is finding the bolts because they are so camouflaged with the rock. Climbing is all there, and you can practically just walk up, but know that it's pretty runout at times (~30'). Start right of the black streak, and aim for the pine tree. That's your bearing for the first pitch. first bolt is HIGH off deck. I saw three or four good placements on the whole route, but didn't take my gear up. I would only recommend this to someone who is pretty confident on slab/friction climbing. Fourth pitch is a BLAST. Shade until about 8. we rapped the route with 2 70's. Hope this helps:) Jul 26, 2020

[Hide Comment] Yep....a goodin'! However, I can't imagine doing this in the rain like Grahm and Leo did on the FA. Good stuff!

@ Sean Sullivan - "Another Shuteye classic!" Yet, 2-stars?? Mar 9, 2022

[Hide Comment] We got up there last weekend 10-19-24. We came from Beasore road, but you can also take whiskey snowmobile road. Approach trail is in good shape, and the descent down the far climbers left side wasn't too bad, we headed down towards the base until we linked back into the approach trail(which is well cairned and traveled). I found the slab sections to have bolts exactly where you need them, and despite there being a couple of longer runouts, all of the more difficult sections are well protected and well within the character of the area as a whole. Only really need cams to 0.5, and I only used one gold dmm offset down lower. The hole mentioned at the top of P3 was awesome to find and stick a cam in. The roof move is super well protected, and a little reachy. Getting off the belay to the bolts below the roof was thoughtful movement! Make sure you know exactly how many bolts are on each pitch, and are always looking for them, they're easy to miss. Also there is a bolt towards the top of one of the knobs sections when the knobs dissappear, I was way too far left and missed it and had to downclimb and backclean, which wasn't too bad on the huge knobs. Just make sure you try to trend as much straight up as possible in the knobs. Oct 23, 2024