5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Sport, 460 ft (139 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Justin Ross and Grahm Doe|
|Page Views:||221 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Dave Daly on Feb 23, 2022|
|Admins:||Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
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See the link below for details on the closure and a high resolution map of the closed roads
Area is closed until at least June 30th
Insomnia is approximately 100 feet right and up from 'Mustache Brigade'. Some light scrambling before accessing the base of the route, which is signatured by a dark grey groove.
Climb left of the grey groove and up to the first bolt. Continue to the 2nd bolt straight up above. After the 2nd bolt, head right and up crossing the subtle grey groove. Keep a heads up for a few slick sections. Continue heading up and right, passing the 3rd and 4th bolt along the way. Getting to the 5th bolt is the crux of the route. Continue straight up and pass the 6th and final bolt before gaining the ring anchor belay.
Head up and slightly left to the first bolt. Link dimpled features on darker rock to pass the 2nd and 3rd bolts. The climbing eases while enjoying ribs and knobs passing 3 more bolts before gaining the ring anchor. If you're focused to do just these two pitch, then rap here. Otherwise, continue up a short run out pitch with some decent gear to another anchor. This gains access to the 3rd class approach to the final pitch of 'Mustache Brigade' (stellar climbing with some wild exposure!) See the Mustache Brigade route page.