All Locations > California > Southern-Wester… > Hwy 41: Fresno… > Shuteye Ridge > Big Sleep Area > Big Sleep

Insomnia

Name: Insomnia
Rating: 2.0

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Big Sleep

L › R R › L A › Z

	Afternoon Nap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Gumby's Adventure on the Crystal Highway T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Insomnia S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Moonlight Madness S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Mustache Brigade T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Young Guns T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

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Type:	Sport, 460 ft (139 m), 3 pitches
FA:	Justin Ross and Grahm Doe
Page Views:	221 total · 14/month
Shared By:	Dave Daly on Feb 23, 2022
Admins:	Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Area may be closed May 4 - June 13, 2023 Details

The Sierra NF has issued a closure order May 4 - June 13th. This is a large area closure which covers many of the main access roads in the Sierra National forest. Closure includes parts of Beasore rd. and Minarets road. Access to several popular Western Sierra climbing areas including parts of Shuteye Ridge, the Balls, Mammoth Pools etc. will be affected. Many of these roads are buried in snow at the moment anyway.

See the link below for details on the closure and a high resolution map of the closed roads

fs.usda.gov/alerts/sierra/a…

Access Issue: Area closed until June 30th, 2023 Details

Sierra National Forest has extended a large closure covering many popular Western Sierra climbing areas including Shuteye Ridge, the Balls, Courtright Reservoir etc.
Area is closed until at least June 30th

fs.usda.gov/alerts/sierra/a…

Location

Insomnia is approximately 100 feet right and up from 'Mustache Brigade'. Some light scrambling before accessing the base of the route, which is signatured by a dark grey groove.

Description

Pitch #1:

Climb left of the grey groove and up to the first bolt. Continue to the 2nd bolt straight up above. After the 2nd bolt, head right and up crossing the subtle grey groove. Keep a heads up for a few slick sections. Continue heading up and right, passing the 3rd and 4th bolt along the way. Getting to the 5th bolt is the crux of the route. Continue straight up and pass the 6th and final bolt before gaining the ring anchor belay.

Pitch #2:

Head up and slightly left to the first bolt. Link dimpled features on darker rock to pass the 2nd and 3rd bolts. The climbing eases while enjoying ribs and knobs passing 3 more bolts before gaining the ring anchor. If you're focused to do just these two pitch, then rap here. Otherwise, continue up a short run out pitch with some decent gear to another anchor. This gains access to the 3rd class approach to the final pitch of 'Mustache Brigade' (stellar climbing with some wild exposure!) See the Mustache Brigade route page.