Elevation: 8,296 ft
GPS: 37.35, -119.42759
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 67,256 total · 1,183/month
Shared By: Vicki Schwantes on Jun 5, 2018 · Updates
Admins: Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

Big Sleep Area includes amazing features such as knobby plate ladders at Runnel Vision Wall, 1000 ft slab climbing up Big Sleep Dome, splitter cracks at Voodoo, climbing in the clouds at Eagles Nest and intense sport at Crocodile Dome. Everything from 5.7 trad to 5.13 sport can be found here on face and cracks alike.

The trails to main areas from the campground are pretty established, but getting between areas can often be a bushwhack.

== Camping ==
See "getting there" description. There is a very large area to camp here just before the end of the road. Could easily accommodate 100 people, but you'll often see less than 10. There are no facilities, water can be found to filter in the stream towards Big Sleep but there is no real trail to it and it might be dry later in the season. Bring your own food and water, pack out trash and poop and leave no trace.

Getting There

As of August 2020, typical road access following Mammoth Pools Road and 7S02 are open again - see two paragraphs down.  Whiskey Snowmobile Trails Road is still possible as an access and downloadable as an off-line map for the truly gps-dependent.  Requires Subaru Outback/AWD or better. Whiskey Snowmobile Trails Road may find you stymied by herds of free-ranging cows.  Honk at them to make them move out of your way.

As of June 2019, driving access via Mammoth Pools Road is not possible. The dirt road (7S02) is blocked by fallen trees 2 miles after leaving Minarets Road (4S81). Whiskey Snowmobile Area is the best access road.

Typically, the easiest way to get to Big Sleep main camping area following Mammoth Pools Road (also known as Minarets Road and Rd. 225, most often signed as "Rd. 225")  from North Fork. Then 23 miles later take a left on 7S02 Forest Road about 1 mile past well-signed Rock Creek Campground. Then for about 8 miles to 7S02M which takes you onto a big slab. This is the main camping area, drive off the road and set up camp. (37.335361, -119.420861)

Don't be confused with Milky Way area which has a turn off about 7 miles down 7S02 from the intersection.

7S02 was a pretty good dirt road and 7S02M is a little worse but something a normal car can handle (2018). There is evidence of many downed trees across the road that have been cut by jeepers or climbers on the way here.

58 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Big Sleep Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 11
Runnel Lust
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 45
Afternoon Nap
Trad 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 17
Space Cadet
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 27
Willy Nilly
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 63
Moonlight Madness
Sport 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 25
Croc Rock
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
Sunday School
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
The Bougie Peanut
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
Runnel Vision
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 17
King Lizard
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Rainbow
Trad, TR
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
Struggle Within
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 14
Don't Take It For Granite
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 11
Crocodile Hunter
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 15
Space Cowboy
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Runnel Lust Runnel Vision Wall
 11
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Afternoon Nap Big Sleep
 45
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 5 pitches
Space Cadet Eagles Nest > Eagle's Nest (Upper)
 17
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Willy Nilly Crocodile Dome
 27
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Moonlight Madness Big Sleep
 63
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 5 pitches
Croc Rock Crocodile Dome
 25
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Sunday School Crocodile Dome
 11
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Bougie Peanut Crocodile Dome
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Runnel Vision Runnel Vision Wall
 15
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
King Lizard Crocodile Dome
 17
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Rainbow Voodoo Dome
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Struggle Within Runnel Vision Wall
 6
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Don't Take It For Granite Crocodile Dome
 14
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Crocodile Hunter Crocodile Dome
 11
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Space Cowboy Eagles Nest > Eagle's Nest (Upper)
 15
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, TR
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