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Elevation: 8,296 ft 2,529 m
GPS: 37.35, -119.42759
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 68,166 total · 913/month
Shared By: Cory B on Jun 5, 2018 · Updates
Admins: Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

Big Sleep Area includes amazing features such as knobby plate ladders at Runnel Vision Wall, 1000 ft slab climbing up Big Sleep Dome, splitter cracks at Voodoo, climbing in the clouds at Eagles Nest and intense sport at Crocodile Dome. Everything from 5.7 trad to 5.13 sport can be found here on face and cracks alike.

The trails to main areas from the campground are pretty established, but getting between areas can often be a bushwhack.

== Camping ==
See "getting there" description. There is a very large area to camp here just before the end of the road. Could easily accommodate 100 people, but you'll often see less than 10. There are no facilities, water can be found to filter in the stream towards Big Sleep but there is no real trail to it and it might be dry later in the season. Bring your own food and water, pack out trash and poop and leave no trace.

Getting There Suggest change

There are several ways to reach the Big Sleep area, but the recommend approach is to take the Whiskey Snowmobile trail road. This road does not require 4WD but some clearance (small SUV/crossover) is ideal.

Make your way to the town of North Fork (Center of California!). Pass through town heading east on Road 225. Go straight through the traffic circle staying on Rd 225. Not far past town you will take left on Cascadel Rd (37.228606, -119.488801). This road will wind it's way up the hill. When the road arrives at an intersection (37.232333, -119.469504) you take a left onto the Whiskey Fall Rd. Follow this, for ~ 13 miles. Just stay on the mainline as you drive. Eventually you should be able to see the Big Sleep Dome, and you will hang a left onto a often unmarked road which leads to the main camping area (37.335361, -119.420861). This last section of road (~0.25 miles) is the roughest section, if you took your Prius, you may want to park it before tackling the roughest section and just walk the last bit. 

Note- The old way of approaching Big Sleep from Mammoth Pool Rd and 7S02 is not recommended. The road (7S02) has become increasingly worse as the years have passed. The Whiskey Snowmobile Rd is generally in decent repair and is actually faster anyway

59 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Big Sleep Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 51
Afternoon Nap
Trad 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 19
Space Cadet
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
Runnel Lust
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
Willy Nilly
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 71
Moonlight Madness
Sport 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 28
Croc Rock
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
Sunday School
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
The Bougie Peanut
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 16
Runnel Vision
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 17
King Lizard
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 12
Poacher
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 7
Struggle Within
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 17
Don't Take It For Granite
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 14
Crocodile Hunter
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 15
Space Cowboy
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Afternoon Nap Big Sleep
 51
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 5 pitches
Space Cadet Eagles Nest > Eagle's Nest (Upper)
 19
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Runnel Lust Runnel Vision Wall
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Willy Nilly Crocodile Dome
 29
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Moonlight Madness Big Sleep
 71
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport 5 pitches
Croc Rock Crocodile Dome
 28
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Sunday School Crocodile Dome
 11
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Bougie Peanut Crocodile Dome
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Runnel Vision Runnel Vision Wall
 16
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
King Lizard Crocodile Dome
 17
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Poacher Crocodile Dome
 12
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Struggle Within Runnel Vision Wall
 7
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Don't Take It For Granite Crocodile Dome
 17
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Crocodile Hunter Crocodile Dome
 14
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Space Cowboy Eagles Nest > Eagle's Nest (Upper)
 15
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, TR
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