All Locations > California > Western Sierra > Shuteye Ridge

Big Sleep Area Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Big Sleep Area

Big Sleep 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Crocodile Dome 9 / 9 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19

Eagles Nest 4 / 8 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12

little sleep South Face 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Runnel Vision Wall 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Runnel Wall 0 / 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Voodoo Dome 6 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6

Elevation:	8,296 ft
GPS:	37.35, -119.428 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	46,935 total · 1,270/month
Shared By:	Vicki Schwantes on Jun 5, 2018 · Updates
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: Access may be closed Details

Many areas in The Southern Yosemite area including Shuteye have access roads that may be closed due to the recent 2020 fire season. Check with the local Forrest service before heading out there as you may get turned around at a locked gate and waste a day heading somewhere else.

Description

Big Sleep Area includes amazing features such as knobby plate ladders at Runnel Vision Wall, 1000 ft slab climbing up Big Sleep Dome, splitter cracks at Voodoo, climbing in the clouds at Eagles Nest and intense sport at Crocodile Dome. Everything from 5.7 trad to 5.13 sport can be found here on face and cracks alike.

The trails to main areas from the campground are pretty established, but getting between areas can often be a bushwhack.

== Camping ==
See "getting there" description. There is a very large area to camp here just before the end of the road. Could easily accommodate 100 people, but you'll often see less than 10. There are no facilities, water can be found to filter in the stream towards Big Sleep but there is no real trail to it and it might be dry later in the season. Bring your own food and water, pack out trash and poop and leave no trace.

Getting There

As of August 2020, typical road access following Mammoth Pools Road and 7S02 are open again - see two paragraphs down. Whiskey Snowmobile Trails Road is still possible as an access and downloadable as an off-line map for the truly gps-dependent. Requires Subaru Outback/AWD or better. Whiskey Snowmobile Trails Road may find you stymied by herds of free-ranging cows. Honk at them to make them move out of your way.

As of June 2019, driving access via Mammoth Pools Road is not possible. The dirt road (7S02) is blocked by fallen trees 2 miles after leaving Minarets Road (4S81). Whiskey Snowmobile Area is the best access road.

Typically, the easiest way to get to Big Sleep main camping area following Mammoth Pools Road (also known as Minarets Road and Rd. 225, most often signed as "Rd. 225") from North Fork. Then 23 miles later take a left on 7S02 Forest Road about 1 mile past well-signed Rock Creek Campground. Then for about 8 miles to 7S02M which takes you onto a big slab. This is the main camping area, drive off the road and set up camp. (37.335361, -119.420861)

Don't be confused with Milky Way area which has a turn off about 7 miles down 7S02 from the intersection.

7S02 was a pretty good dirt road and 7S02M is a little worse but something a normal car can handle (2018). There is evidence of many downed trees across the road that have been cut by jeepers or climbers on the way here.

51 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Big Sleep Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 11 ● Runnel Lust Trad Runnel Vision Wall
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 43 ● Afternoon Nap Trad 5 pitches Big Sleep
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 17 ● Space Cadet Sport Eagles Nest > Eagle's Nest (Upper)
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 24 ● Willy Nilly Trad Crocodile Dome
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c 57 ● Moonlight Madness Sport 5 pitches Big Sleep
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 22 ● Croc Rock Sport Crocodile Dome
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 10 ● Sunday School Trad Crocodile Dome
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 15 ● Runnel Vision Sport Runnel Vision Wall
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 16 ● King Lizard Sport Crocodile Dome
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 11 ● Poacher Sport Crocodile Dome
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 6 ● Struggle Within Sport Runnel Vision Wall
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 12 ● Don't Take It For Granite Sport Crocodile Dome
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 11 ● Crocodile Hunter Sport Crocodile Dome
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 14 ● Space Cowboy Sport, TR Eagles Nest > Eagle's Nest (Upper)
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 3 ● Belly of the Beast Sport Crocodile Dome