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Areas in Big Sleep Area

Big Sleep 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Crocodile Dome 4 / 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Eagles Nest 4 / 7 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Runnel Vision Wall 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Voodoo Dome 3 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Description

Big Sleep Area includes amazing features such as knobby plate ladders at Runnel Vision Wall, 1000 ft slab climbing up Big Sleep Dome, splitter cracks at Voodoo, climbing in the clouds at Eagles Nest and intense sport at Crocodile Dome. Everything from 5.7 trad to 5.13 sport can be found here on face and cracks alike.

The trails to main areas from the campground are pretty established, but getting between areas can often be a bushwhack. Bring gardening shears and help keep the manzanita at bay!

== Camping ==
See "getting there" description. There is a very large area to camp here just before the end of the road. Could easily accommodate 100 people, but you'll often see less than 10. There are no facilities, water can be found to filter in the stream towards Big Sleep but there is no real trail to it and it might be dry later in the season. Bring your own food and water, pack out trash and poop and leave no trace.

Getting There

The easiest way to get to Big Sleep main camping area following Mammoth Pools Road (also known as Minarets Road and Rd. 225, most often signed as "Rd. 225")  from North Fork. Then 23 miles later take a left on 7S02 Forest Road about 1 mile past well-signed Rock Creek Campground. Then for about 8 miles to 7S02M which takes you onto a big slab. This is the main camping area, drive off the road and set up camp. (37.335361, -119.420861)

Don't be confused with Milky Way area which has a turn off about 7 miles down 7S02 from the intersection.

7S02 was a pretty good dirt road and 7S02M is a little worse but something a normal car can handle (2018). There is evidence of many downed trees across the road that have been cut by jeepers or climbers on the way here.

Google will try to take you up another way (I think "Whiskey Snowmobile Trails Road") which is steeper, more complicated, less quality and only 15 minutes faster.

29 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Big Sleep Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 5
Runnel Lust
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 31
Afternoon Nap
Trad 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 6
Space Cadet
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Willy Nilly
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Deep Space
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Booster Rocket
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 30
Moonlight Madness
Sport 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 8
Croc Rock
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Fin To Win
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Sunday School
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Unnamed 10a
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Dark Matter
Sport, TR
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Poacher
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
King Lizard
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Don't Take It For Granite
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Runnel Lust Runnel Vision Wall
 5
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Afternoon Nap Big Sleep
 31
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 5 pitches
Space Cadet Eagles Nest > Eagle's Nest (Upper)
 6
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Willy Nilly Crocodile Dome
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Deep Space Eagles Nest > Eagle's Nest (Upper)
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Booster Rocket Eagles Nest > Eagle's Nest (Upper)
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Moonlight Madness Big Sleep
 30
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport 5 pitches
Croc Rock Crocodile Dome
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport
Fin To Win Eagles Nest > Eagle's Nest (Lower)
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Sunday School Crocodile Dome
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Unnamed 10a Eagles Nest > Eagle's Nest (Lower)
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Dark Matter Eagles Nest > Eagle's Nest (Upper)
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Poacher Crocodile Dome
 3
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
King Lizard Crocodile Dome
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Don't Take It For Granite Crocodile Dome
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
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