Big Sleep Rock Climbing

More Common Approach

Head to the end of the road from Big Sleep camping area and take the straight on trail that curves left and up a wash. Eventually, this will leave the wash and split with a rock "B" (left for Big Sleep) and a wooden "V" (right for Voodoo Dome). Go left to the base of Big Sleep around where Afternoon Nap is. Moonlight Madness can be found right of the trail.

***Descent from Big Sleep: most go down the pass trail, but An easier and quicker way is to descend the west edge of Big Sleep (climbers left if climbing up Big Sleep), staying high out of the forest and sticking to the low angle 3rd/4th class slabs.

Less Common Approach

A giant boulder called the "Petrified Elephant" will be visible to the east. You can't miss it. Walk toward this boulder's right side. Grahm Doe's new guidebook shows you walking straight past this to the big slab, but you don't. Turn right at the Petrified Elephant and look closely for the "trail" that leads to the big open slab. You can't see the slab yet. At the slab, follow cairns to the other side of the slab until you are below the center of the southwest face of Big Sleep. Here, a trail follows a gully up to the toe of the slab, which is about 10 feet left of the start of Afternoon Nap. All but a couple of climbs start to the left of where you meet the formation.

I've centered the map on the spot where you'll meet the rock at the end of the trail.