Elevation: 7,900 ft
GPS: 37.341, -119.422 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 23,329 total · 308/month
Shared By: Chris D on Jun 29, 2014 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

This massive dome is a dream of easy slab climbing on incredibly grippy high-quality granite. The summit is a surprisingly prominent pinnacle for a dome like this, and offers expansive views of Southern Yosemite, the Minarets, the Eastern Sierras, north along Shuteye Ridge to the Shuteye Peak fire lookout, and south toward Crocodile, Voodoo, and the Eagle's Nest.

Getting There

More Common Approach
Head to the end of the road from Big Sleep camping area and take the straight on trail that curves left and up a wash. Eventually, this will leave the wash and split with a rock "B" (left for Big Sleep) and a wooden "V" (right for Voodoo Dome). Go left to the base of Big Sleep around where Afternoon Nap is. Moonlight Madness can be found right of the trail.

Less Common Approach
A giant boulder called the "Petrified Elephant" will be visible to the east. You can't miss it. Walk toward this boulder's right side. Grahm Doe's new guidebook shows you walking straight past this to the big slab, but you don't. Turn right at the Petrified Elephant and look closely for the "trail" that leads to the big open slab. You can't see the slab yet. At the slab, follow cairns to the other side of the slab until you are below the center of the southwest face of Big Sleep. Here, a trail follows a gully up to the toe of the slab, which is about 10 feet left of the start of Afternoon Nap. All but a couple of climbs start to the left of where you meet the formation.

I've centered the map on the spot where you'll meet the rock at the end of the trail.

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Big Sleep

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 43
Afternoon Nap
Trad 5 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 57
Moonlight Madness
Sport 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 5
Gumby's Adventure on the Crystal…
Trad 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Afternoon Nap
 43
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 5 pitches
Moonlight Madness
 57
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport 5 pitches
Gumby's Adventure on the Cr…
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 5 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Big Sleep »

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