Type: Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 5 pitches
FA: Matt Schutz, rope solo 10/2007, GU
Page Views: 858 total · 24/month
Shared By: Bill Lundeen on Oct 29, 2018
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

5 long pitches of slabby adventuring on The Big Sleep.  Enjoy crystal intrusions, quartz ledges, water pots, and huge knobs on an old school climbing trip. The crux pitch leaves the slab behind for a change and pulls on a steep flake to start to a field of giant knobs to the anchor at about 65 meters.  Two of the pitches will require simul-climbing if you don't have a 70m rope, and 2 will stretch your 60 to its max. All belays have 2 bolt anchors. See Grahm Doe's excellent Shuteye Ridge guidebook for pitch by pitch descriptions.
DESCENT: 5 two-rope raps down Afternoon Nap or walk off to the left side of the dome.

Location

Gumby's starts about 200 feet right of where the approach trail meets the base of the dome.  It is the next route right of Afternoon Nap (50 feet) and 100 feet left of Moonlight Madness.  Look for a smooth, white, narrow water streak with 2 bolts just visible 50 or 60 feet up. 

Protection

You'll need a rack of singles to 3" and a few slings for lassoing those big knobs. Even a few draws--there are never more than 4 bolts per pitch.

Photos