Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches
FA: Sean Neville, Josh Mucci, 11/10
Page Views: 380 total · 14/month
Shared By: Sean Neville on Dec 11, 2021
Admins: Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

This route is a fun well protected climb with an amazing last pitch.  This climb is a little more adventurous than "nap" or "moonlight"

Pitch 1. Climb cracks up slab until they end for about 40 feet (gear to 1").  Clip a bolt and climb runnel or they look like tire tracks up to the huge ledge at the base of the right facing corner.  It is possible to scramble and right from the base and then back left to skip the first pitch.  5.7. 1 bolt and gear anchor.  (150 feet)

Pitch 2. Climb fun wide right facing corner (gear to 4") until you can step out of corner and clip a bolt.  Follow 4 more bolts up face climbing through cool pods up and right to two bolt anchor.  5.8, 185 feet.  

Pitch 3. Traverse right on dike on easy but exposed ground until you can start climbing straight up and place a 1.25" inch piece in crack.  Climb face and crack up to slab under a big boulder and gear belay.  You can rap the route from here with 2 ropes back to the big ledge with right facing corner and walk off but you would miss the best part of the climb higher up.  5.7. 185 feet.

Pitch 4.  This pitch is an adventure pitch and there are two ways you can go.  The original route takes the easiest way up and right then through bushes and blocks (knobs) heading towards the bottom left side of huge block.  Stand on top of huge boulder with big chimney below and belay at two bolt anchor (5.7).  The second way was bolted later to try and find a better path forward.  From the anchor continue up and left up slab clipping bolts until you get to a block.  Climb the block with crack up and right clipping a bolt and end up in bushes below big boulder with chimney.  Squeeze your way up chimney until you can stand on big boulder with belay anchor.  (150 feet)

Pitch 5. Money pitch.  This pitch looks so intimidating especially when you step right off the belay.  Climb amazing featured face up to first bolt then climb another 20 feet to second bolt.  From the second bolt climb up face placing gear on featured face and cracks heading towards the bottom of small triangle roof.  Climb over the roof or slightly right on great holds and gear and then climb incredible shuteye knobs to the top belaying on slung knobs.  5.8, 150 feet.  

The route is named for the November mustaches on the first accent. 

To descend.  Climb all the way to the top of the dome and descend the far climbers left staying as close as you can to the dome to avoid bushwhacking.  Same descent as other routes to the left.  If you find the trail it is 20 mins.  

Location Suggest change

Located right of Big Sleep and left of Insomnia.  From Moonlight madness keep moving right until beneath a large right facing corner about 100 ft up.  The first pitch starts on the slab under the big right facing corner. The last pitch climbs the left side of the huge block on the right side of Big Sleep above Insomnia.  

Protection Suggest change

Bolts and gear to 4"

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