Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Tom Slater, Brandon Thau 7/2010
Page Views: 8,585 total · 116/month
Shared By: Chris D on Jun 29, 2014 with 2 Suggestions
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

A fantastic and easy romp up a giant dome, this climb seems very civilized compared to the approach and descent. Begin by getting to the rock (20 minutes if you know what you're doing, up to an hour if you don't) following the directions on the "Big Sleep" page. From the end of the trail, scramble up and right about 20-30 feet. You'll see a bolt about 20 feet up. This is where the route starts.

All pitches are 60 meters, so don't tie in with a long tail, and don't plan on using any of your rope at the belay. This a good place for both you and your second to use a sling or a PAS to anchor in. All pitches end in a pair of solid bolts with chains. There is very little pro except for the bolts on a couple of pitches, but all difficulties are well protected and there are adequate bolts even at the easy parts to prevent catastrophe, But some 30’ run outs over easy terrain exist. Both places where roofs must be surmounted can be protected with a #1 Camalot, and other than slings, this is really all the pro you need. The route pretty much goes straight up, so it'd be a pretty noteworthy day if you managed to get lost. It would also be a noteworthy day if you managed to *not* get lost on the approach and descent, so be alert.

P1 - 2 bolts to the anchor. Follow the bolts. Very easy slab climbing with fantastic friction. A prominent roof protects well and is easiest to pass just right of the spot where it tapers down. Belay under a little left-facing roof

P2 - 5 bolts. Follow the water chute using the bolts as your guide to the anchors. First indications of the dikes above appear on this pitch.

P3 - 5 bolts. You follow the water runnel a little further, then follow a pair of really cool, understated dikes to the next anchor. Again, you can follow the bolts.

P4 - This is the business. 4 bolts. Easy 5.7 for besting the roof and for the friction step-across stemming the water runnel, both of which can probably (but shouldn't) be avoided on easier terrain. Leave the belay heading for the "stepladder" in the roof. A balancey no-hand two-step gets you over the roof here, with a bomber cam right beneath you. You can get over the roof to the left more steeply (but with some hands) or to the right at a lower weakness, but for my money, I'd head up the steps. It's a lot of fun. Above here, head for the left-facing crescent/arch and climb this to a spot with a somewhat delicate stem across the water runnel. Clip a bolt and run up to the route's only semi-unpleasant semi-hanging belay.

P5 - From the belay, climb up a few feet an clip a bolt (just one on this pitch), the run up the rest of the pitch on the left side of a giant "bellybutton" to some well-positioned chains at the end of the route. The angle eases off just as the rock becomes incredibly featured. Tie a couple of slipknots around the runnels to impress your friends, or just skip it if you're in a rush. You'll not fall on this pitch. Your grandmother would not fall on this pitch.

From here either rap the route or scramble straight up third class boulders to increasingly low-angle rock that leads to the dome's summit.

Unlimited thanks to the author(s) of this route for putting up a reasonable and fun, easy outing. It will do much to get folks out to experience this fantastic setting.

Location

See the approach and descent descriptions for Big Sleep.

Protection

Five single-length runners, two doubles, and a #1 Camalot-sized cam, and whatever you use to build anchors at two-bolt belays will be plenty for this route if you're familiar with even easy slab-climbing techniques. The runouts are, at times, tremendous (in excess of 40 feet) but they will seem trivial in light of the easy climbing and the rock quality, which is so nice and grippy that even an apprentice slab-master should feel confident at the end of the longest runouts.

Photos