Type: Trad, 900 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Tom Slater, Brandon Thau 7/2010
Page Views: 6,354 total · 117/month
Shared By: Chris D on Jun 29, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

A fantastic and easy romp up a giant dome, this climb seems very civilized compared to the approach and descent. Begin by getting to the rock (20 minutes if you know what you're doing, up to a couple of hours if you don't) following the directions on the "Big Sleep" page. From the end of the trail, scramble up and right about 20-30 feet. You will see a bolt about 20 feet up. This is where the route starts.

All pitches are 60 meters, so don't tie in with a long tail, and don't plan on using any of your rope at the belay. This a good place for both you and your second to use a sling or a PAS to anchor in. All pitches end in a pair of solid bolts with chains. There is very little pro except for the bolts on a couple of pitches, but all difficulties are well protected and there are adequate bolts even at the easy parts to prevent catastrophe, so I don't think that a PG rating is deserved. Both places where roofs must be surmounted can be protected with a #1 Camalot, and other than slings, this is really all the pro you need. The route pretty much goes straight up, so it'd be a pretty noteworthy day if you managed to get lost. It would also be a noteworthy day if you managed to *not* get lost on the approach and descent, so be alert.

P1 - 2 bolts to the anchor. Follow the bolts. Very easy slab climbing with fantastic friction. A prominent roof protects well and is easiest to pass just right of the spot where it tapers down. Belay under a little left-facing roof

P2 - 5 bolts. Follow the water chute using the bolts as your guide to the anchors. First indications of the dikes above appear on this pitch.

P3 - 5 bolts. You follow the water runnel a little further, then follow a pair of really cool, understated dikes to the next anchor. Again, you can follow the bolts.

P4 - This is the business. 4 bolts. Easy 5.7 for besting the roof and for the friction step-across stemming the water runnel, both of which can probably (but shouldn't) be avoided on easier terrain. Leave the belay heading for the "stepladder" in the roof. A balancey no-hand two-step gets you over the roof here, with a bomber cam right beneath you. You can get over the roof to the left more steeply (but with some hands) or to the right at a lower weakness, but for my money, I'd head up the steps. It's a lot of fun. Above here, head for the left-facing crescent/arch and climb this to a spot with a somewhat delicate stem across the water runnel. Clip a bolt and run up to the route's only semi-unpleasant semi-hanging belay.

P5 - From the belay, climb up a few feet an clip a bolt (just one on this pitch), the run up the rest of the pitch on the left side of a giant "bellybutton" to some well-positioned chains at the end of the route. The angle eases off just as the rock becomes incredibly featured. Tie a couple of slipknots around the runnels to impress your friends, or just skip it if you're in a rush. You will not fall on this pitch. Your grandmother would not fall on this pitch.

From here either rap the route or scramble straight up third class boulders to increasingly low-angle rock that leads to the dome's summit.

Unlimited thanks to the author(s) of this route for putting up a reasonable and fun, easy outing. It will do much to get folks out to experience this fantastic setting.

Location

See the approach and descent descriptions for Big Sleep.

Protection

Five single-length runners, two doubles, and a #1 Camalot-sized cam, and whatever you use to build anchors at two-bolt belays will be plenty for this route if you're familiar with even easy slab-climbing techniques. The runouts are, at times, tremendous (in excess of 40 feet) but they will seem trivial in light of the easy climbing and the rock quality, which is so nice and grippy that even an apprentice slab-master should feel confident at the end of the longest runouts.
Cory Brooks
Fresno, CA
  5.6
Cory Brooks   Fresno, CA
  5.6
Very Fun and relaxing. Singles from 0.5 to 3" were useful also a few long slings For the 5.7 pitch. Very popular climb.
Mostly low 5th climb climbing with two short cruxes Apr 15, 2015
This climb is not for beginning 5.7 leaders. The first two pitches are easy yet run out making this climb very heady. Two 60m ropes are needed to rappel the route, consider having the second carry a pull cord if you want to go light.

If the climb is busy, consider the two pitch 5.8 to climber's right about 600 ft. Fun and well protected.

If a big group goes up (like two teams of 3), consider the mess that will ensue when they rap the route if you climb up after them...

Anchors / bolts were bomber. May 26, 2015
Todd E.  
Route finding was straight forward. The approach is about 20 min not bad at all. You should be a solid 5.7 climber to do this route and use to 30 foot run outs. Several long slings are useful on the 5.7 pitch. Anchors are solid however, make sure the link from the bolt to the chain are screwed closed. We found 3 that were completely open! Watch out for rope snap when rapping!!!Overall the route is HEADY because of the long run outs.... A bit stiff for 5.7 if you as me.. Safe Climbing y'all! Jun 19, 2015
Sean P. Sullivan
Clovis, Ca
 
Sean P. Sullivan   Clovis, Ca
 
Finding the route took a minute. The start is about 20 feet up and right when hit the wall when coming up the drainage trail. First bolt is a few feet above the right facing ramp/crack below a small dimple. Next bolt is 40 feet above you but i found a great #1 BD cam placement before the bolt. Most if not all the runnouts can be supplemented with gear to 3" although only up to 1" was used by myself. Rapping this would take as long as climbing it would and would be a nightmare for a party coming up. Consider summiting and cruising over to Midway Dome for some super fun easy knob slinging, Or back down to Croc Dome, then down the summit pass trail to the car. Oct 25, 2015
Eric Swanson
Fresno, CA
Eric Swanson   Fresno, CA
Fun climb once we finally found our way there. We made the cairns much more noticeable on the way back down last month. I actually thought the top of pitch 2 was the hardest part since it was runout slab to the anchors.

Challenge - Climb pitch 1 without using your hands. It is possible ;) Dec 2, 2015
K-Tanz
Phoenix, AZ
  5.8 PG13
K-Tanz   Phoenix, AZ
  5.8 PG13
Pitch two was the definite crux for me. The almost 40 foot runouts are indeed supplemeted by bolts, but the spacing is ambitious for what my partner and I both felt was undoubtedly the hardest climbing on the route. Definitely not approproate for the nascent trad leader. The fourth pitch looks more intimidating but the climbing is more secure and less difficult than pitch two.

Be on the lookout for camoflauged bolts which can be very difficult to see.

All that said the route is fantastic and you should climb it! Sep 20, 2016
Andrew Fahrland
Denver, CO
  5.7 PG13
Andrew Fahrland   Denver, CO
  5.7 PG13
A good route, but after doing Moonlight Madness immediately prior, my partner and I both agreed that MM is the better route. Afternoon Nap has some 25+ ft run-outs on 5.6 terrain, so be prepared for that. The runnel climbing is fun, but definitely PG13 protected. Oct 20, 2017
Nate Flink
Minneapolis, MN
Nate Flink   Minneapolis, MN
The route is sort of like 4 pitches of Stitcher Quits in Joshua Tree except lower angle / easier. Some of the bulge / roof moves are fun and interesting and well protected. There are a few nasty runouts where a fall would be bad, but nothing crazy different than what one excepts as a Trad climber in lot of other areas. The entire climb was easier than the last pitch of Finger Trip on Tahquitz in my opinion. The crux is avoiding your car breaking on the roads to get there/leave if you don't have a giant 4x4 vehicle Nov 25, 2017