Elevation: 7,660 ft
GPS: 37.355, -119.422 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 19,291 total · 527/month
Shared By: Brian Prince on Sep 21, 2018
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen
Access Issue: Access may be closed Details

Description

Sitting on the east side of the ridge, towards the southern end of it, sit a group of tall and ultra high quality domes that surround Shuteye Creek. Here lies the highest concentration of “Eagle” domes.

Longer, more trad style routes are the norm. Easy to hard. Though great quality cragging and fully bolted lines can also be had here. Approaches range from 30 min. to 1.5 hours.

Getting There

From the town of North Fork, drive ~30 miles on Minarets (aka Mammoth Pool) road. A few miles after passing Mile High Vista, take a left on dirt road 6s66. There is a a big sign that marks this road and points to the Shuteye Pass Trail. After about a mile, pass the easy to miss trailhead to said pass and keep going maybe another mile. You will reach a fork. The trailhead to most of the domes in the area is at the end of the left fork. You can park at the fork and walk the rest of the way as the road gets kinda rowdy here. The end of the right fork provides a nice camp spot (as does the end of the left).

2018 conditions: The road leading to the fork was definitely doable in a regular old 2wd lowrider a few years ago. Now it's quite a bit rougher but still probably doable. It was smooth sailing in an Outback, for instance.  If you can get past an initial rocky section, then you're good to go for a while. You will have to straddle some gigantic ruts though, be careful. If you can't make it to the fork, you should be able to get at least within 1/2 mile of it.

*Note - Some of the areas are most easily reached via the lookout road. In that case, follow directions to the High Eagle/Queen's throne area

26 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Shuteye Creek Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
Decade
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 32
Wing Feather
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
Heart of Gold
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Wham Bam Thank You Jam
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 3
Road To Zion
Trad 5 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
Double Shot
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 3
Wanderlust
Trad 5 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
South Side Of The Sky
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
 5
Taipan Rising
Trad, Aid 5 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
El Portalien
Trad 4 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Oh Maggie!
Sport 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Decade Gray Eagle > Great Depression
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Wing Feather Gray Eagle > Great Depression
 32
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Heart of Gold Gray Eagle > Alley Wall
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Wham Bam Thank You Jam Red Eagle
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Road To Zion Gray Eagle > Alley Wall
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad 5 pitches
Double Shot Gold Eagle
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Wanderlust Gray Eagle > N Face Left Side
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad 5 pitches
South Side Of The Sky Gold Eagle
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Taipan Rising Electric Eagle
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 Trad, Aid 5 pitches
El Portalien Electric Eagle
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 4 pitches
Oh Maggie! Electric Eagle
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport 4 pitches
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