Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: Will Crljenko, Herb and Eve Laeger 1989
Page Views: 628 total · 14/month
Shared By: Sean P. Sullivan on May 31, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

Climb the dihedral and break out right into the hand crack whenever you feel comfortable. Lieback around the roof and continue up to the anchors. Crux was transitioning to the hand crack, the roof goes quite easily actually. 70m rope will get you to the platform you start on, but not to the ground when lowering. Make sure your belayer ties a knot and the end of the rope.

Location

Left side of the wall. Can't miss it, just keep walking till it opens up. There are some 5.9's to the right of this that look fun as well.

Protection

Pro to 2". Emphasis on small to finger size until the hand crack. .5-1 BD cams worked well for that section.

Photos

Brice Pollock
Oakland, CA
  5.9
Brice Pollock   Oakland, CA  
  5.9
Really strange cracks that take gear strangely. A varying shuteye style crack that goes from fingers to hands and then hangs to finish after transition to the right face crack under the roof using a small ledge.

I broke out to the right-hand crack at the roof rather than where the picture shows. There is a small edge there you can use to get close enough to pull yourself over, it felt a bit heady for me. Both 5’2” and 6’6” people were able to grab the lip and pull over.

Felt harder than 5.8. I was able to rap with a 70m no problem. May 29, 2018
Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
  5.9
Bill Lundeen   Lee Vining, CA
  5.9
Good, unusual route of crack/corner climbing. Definitely felt hard for 5.8; the crack switch was a difficult reach with a very committing move before gear could be placed in the right crack. I was glad to have a #3 Camalot to place at the beginning of the final scrappy corner; that way I could save a #2 for higher up about 15 feet before the anchor. Oct 29, 2018