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Willy Nilly
5.8,
Trad, 120 ft (36 m),
Avg: 3.2 from 29
votes
FA: Will Crljenko, Herb and Eve Laeger 1989
California
> Southern-Wester…
> Hwy 41: Fresno…
> Shuteye Ridge
> Big Sleep Area
> Crocodile Dome
Description
Climb the dihedral and break out right into the hand crack whenever you feel comfortable. Lieback around the roof and continue up to the anchors. Crux was transitioning to the hand crack, the roof goes quite easily actually. 70m rope will get you to the platform you start on, but not to the ground when lowering. Make sure your belayer ties a knot and the end of the rope.
Location
Left side of the wall. Can't miss it, just keep walking till it opens up. There are some 5.9's to the right of this that look fun as well.
Protection
Pro to 2". Emphasis on small to finger size until the hand crack. .5-1 BD cams worked well for that section.
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Mammoth Lakes, CA
I broke out to the right-hand crack at the roof rather than where the picture shows. There is a small edge there you can use to get close enough to pull yourself over, it felt a bit heady for me. Both 5’2” and 6’6” people were able to grab the lip and pull over.
Felt harder than 5.8. I was able to rap with a 70m no problem. May 29, 2018
Fort Bragg, CA
Lander, WY